New spurs?

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Hi,

I am having my kitchen fitted tomorrow, but have a couple of questions of some sockets I am moving aroung, extending etc:-

EXTENSION OF EXISTING SOCKET?
1) I have an existing socket that needs to be moved along a little. This had two sets of cables going in to it. I have connected brown to brown, black to black and earth to earth wires together, using a choc block. From the other side of the choc block are three extension wires, which go to the socket. Is this OK?

CREATION OF NEW SPUR?
2) I have broken into an existing circuit, and done the same as above to allow me to connect a cooker extractor. This time, I had to cut the cable, but again joined brown to brown, blue to blue and earth to earth using a choc block. Then taking the other side of the choc block to a socket. Is this OK?

CHANGING FROM SINGLE TO DOUBLE SOCKET
3) With this one, I wanted to create a double socket so I can plug the ignition from my hob and cooker into, instead of using a double extension plug. Again, I have joined the brown to brown, blue to blue and earth to earth on one side of the choc block, and then the other side the brown, blue and earth into the double socket. Is this normal, or do double sockets require a return side?

All of these new circuits have choc blocks on the end, and I've not connected the sockets yet, before I confirm that what I've done is fine.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'd like to post on here again some day!!!

Cheers, Lee
 
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Hello,
Kitchen fitted tomorrow ?? You should have popped in earlier ! :LOL:
All seems ok tbh(unless you mean that you have used connector blocks which you intend to bury. or tile over), have you cabled within the 'zones' , rcd protected the circ etc (where needed). I take it that no 'un accessable screwed connections' are left hidden :eek: )
Part P and testing sorted ??

Ed
 
I have connected brown to brown, black to black and earth to earth wires together, using a choc block. From the other side of the choc block are three extension wires, which go to the socket.


This time, I had to cut the cable, but again joined brown to brown, blue to blue and earth to earth using a choc block. Then taking the other side of the choc block to a socket.

Again, I have joined the brown to brown, blue to blue and earth to earth on one side of the choc block,

Seems to be a lot of choc blocks :!:
 
:eek: :LOL: Not to mention the Brown/Brown and Black /Black !! :LOL:

Let us know Isco, we will try and help.

Ed
 
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Hi,

Thanks for all the replies.

I had intended to bury the choc blocks in the wall (I've only used these to join cabling together, where neccesary). Would I be best leaving these accessible? Are these considered to be a poor way to extend cabling? Is there a better way I should use? I have used very highly rated choc blocks.

What is a zone, and what do I need to know about before I connect up my sockets?

The only extra that I'm adding it to the circuit is an extra spur for a cooker extractor, so I don't think I'd be overloading the circuit.

What protection could I connect in to protect the circuit, and where would this need to be connected?

Cheers, Lee
 
Should also clarify, that the cabling is the original, red, black and earth

I am using newer cabling for the extension pieces, ie. brown, blue and earth.

I tried to put it all as the same in the original post to save any confusion, but ended up doing so anyway !

Cheers, Lee
 
Screw-type connections sucha as you are using should be accessible for testing and inspection. The acceptable way (the best way being running a new length of cable back to the next socket on in the ring) is to use crimps and heat-shrink sleeving.

Permitted zones (formerly safe zones) means where you can and cannot ruin concealed cables. In a nutshell this means you can run horizontally or vertically from the faceplate on the wall or as low as 150mm from the ceiling or as far as 150mm from the corner of a wall.

Having read you posts, you may well be safest to get a spark in for this job.
 
first thing in the morning ring your kitchen fitter and tell him not to bother coming

this work needs certifying for Part P, no sparky will do it afterwards and neither will the LBC

there is no " we all have to learn, If you cant post advice dont bother posting or thats what a diy forum is for......" when the work involves kitchens, CHOC BLOCKS PLASTERED INTO WALLS and a need to ask



sorry to be blunt but it seems BAS is having a night off
 
Thanks for all the replies again.

I was not aware of Part P. I've chased the kitchen fitter, but had another thought, which may allow me to proceed.

Could I not just leave the existing sockets and run extension cables to the required place? Is this an acceptable alternative, instead of installing new cabling?

The extra spur for the cooker hood I can take out for now, and this allows the kitchen fitter to continue.

I love it when a plan comes together.

Cheers, Lee
 
Thanks for all the replies again.

I was not aware of Part P.
So do you now understand its requirements?

Could I not just leave the existing sockets and run extension cables to the required place? Is this an acceptable alternative, instead of installing new cabling?
That is just so tacky. I can't believe you'd want to spoil a brand new kitchen like that.

Do it properly - if that means getting an electrician, then so be it - do not do a cr.ap job just to avoid notifiable work. Is there to be no electrical work done in the new kitchen? It's virtually all notifiable - is the kitchen fitter registered?

The extra spur for the cooker hood I can take out for now, and this allows the kitchen fitter to continue.
"for now"?? And then what?
 

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