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New Tap Installation Issue

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by leevis, 29 Nov 2021.

  1. leevis

    leevis

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    Hi All
    I have a new tap that I need to install. It is a large KTAP3 which has something I have never seen before. Normally the taps I have seen in the past have a threaded rod which is screwed into the body of the tap and then this is tighter with a nut.

    This one has no red, it has a threaded connector on the bottom which has a large locking nut on the bottom of it. The available space (length of the thread is 60mm)

    This thread needs to go through the worktop (40mm) and then have the stabilising part on it and then the locking nut which does not give me enough space. The thread on the top is around 37mm to screw into the tap body and the longer thread is 31mm.

    I have seen extenders but not exceeding 60mm, I need around 90mm I think
     
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  3. terryplumb

    terryplumb

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    Show us some pics of the components.
     
  4. leevis

    leevis

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    Here are a couple of photos
     

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  5. Laurieo

    Laurieo

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    Hi ,do you not only use the stabilising part on steel sinks ?.
     
  6. leevis

    leevis

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    Without the stabiliser but there is less than 10mm
     
  7. terryplumb

    terryplumb

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    Does the above mean there is 10 mm (ish) of thread length ,underside of worktop, when stabiliser is not used ? If so ,why can't you tighten up the backnut ? 10 mm should be plenty .
     
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  9. oldbuffer

    oldbuffer

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    1. The fitting instructions are at https://www.cassellie.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/images/product/KTAP3_inst.pdf
    2. If the chromed threaded shank (Item 7) doesn't come through the work surface far enough to screw the black plastic part on, then:
    2a. If you want to use the tap I see no option other than to counterbore the underside of the worktop.
    2b. The drill bit would have to be wide enough to get the black plastic through.
    2c. You would need to plug the existing hole (if any) so that you have something solid to centre and start the drill bit in.
    2d. Be very careful to take out a minimum of worktop depth consistent with a secure fixing for the tap.
    2e. Make sure there is a flat surface for the black plastic part to seat onto. A spade bit or Forstner bit would do.
    3. The tap is designed to be fitted into a sink, rather than a worktop. If you want an easier life I'd suggest changing the tap.
    4. For a different bodge, you could try only screwing the chrome item 7 into the body of the tap by 5 or 6 turns, and securing with thread sealant. I'd be tempted to insert the flexis though item 7 and screwing them into the body of the tap first, both for accessibility and to make sure they are long enough.
     
  10. leevis

    leevis

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    Yeah, so without using the stabiliser I have 10mm. That item 7 threads into the body of the tap but the 2 or 3 threads at the top which are larger. I am hoping that if I do it up tight enough it will stay put, this is a VERY heavy tap
     
  11. terryplumb

    terryplumb

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    Try it and see ,you may be surprised. On many taps one single small nut on a threaded rod is all that tightens up against a horseshoe shaped washer.
     
  12. leevis

    leevis

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    Ive not got the worktop yet but will rig something up to test, i have another thread running about no hot water at the mo but thats another story
     
  13. leevis

    leevis

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    Rigged this one up on some 40mm timber and it does actually hold. Thanks for all the help.

    One thing to note here, the instructions say to install the tails on the tap and then feed through the ring. This is not possible because the nut on the end of the tail will not allow this so you have to put one on then feed the tail through the ring and do it that way.
     
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