New timber door - Eurocylinder deadlock & sashlock?

[loply]

Hi folks,

I'm fitting a new timber door to replace a crappy old uPVC one.

I'm thinking about locks and I'd really like to just use Eurocylinders so I can key them alike with some other doors on the property.

I'm thinking of fitting one Eurocylinder sashlock, and one Eurocylinder deadlock. Probably the sashlock at "hand height" and the dead lock at mid chest height.

This seems to make sense to me - one key will open both locks, and can key it to open the garage etc too, seems more convenient - but I thought I'd ask because it's not normally done? Anybody see a flaw in this plan?

I'd probably fit the sashlock with a thumbturn and the other without, to stop people getting out if they come in via a window.

Because it's a timber door I can route the cutout for the cylinders precisely, so there's no wiggle room for lock snapping etc. When they come fitted from the factory they seem to smash a gigantic hole in the approx location of the cylinder, which seems to be why it's so easy to snap the things.

Would appreciate any advice.

Cheers,
Rich

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Because it's a timber door I can route the cutout for the cylinders precisely, so there's no wiggle room for lock snapping etc.

Yes, but what about the cylinder body which projects beyond the door face (inside the handle)? In any case I very much doubt that you'll be able to rout the cylinder recesses millimetre perfect - far better IMHO to just stick with the "traditional" method of marking out, drilling with 13mm and 17mm bits and connecting the two using a keyhole saw (what many chippies do on a "one off" job). Pretty much any cheaper cylinder isn't anti-snap and even if they are the cheaper cylinders can be susceptible to drilling or bumping. If you want security then you need to go for anti-drill, anti-snap and anti bump cylinders and they aren't cheap (look at stuff like the Magnum) - do that with your main lock and the one at the top of the door need only be a relatively low cost cylinder. Even a cheap one-sided star lock would be almost as effective as a thief is probably not going to have one in his pocket, surely?

You may find this article of interest

 

[loply]

Hi JobAndKnock, I was already planning on fitting an escutcheon which can't be removed (easily!).

Frankly the design of the ones in the open market is a joke - thin pressed metal, or worse cast leftover pot metal, with no sloping edges and held on with crap quality screws. I'll fit something solid stainless with heavily sloped edges and decent sized retaining screws.

That, in conjunction with a well-fitted cylinder hole, will make the prospect of snapping the lock a lot less likely.

From what I've seen the supposed anti-snap locks snap just as easily as normal ones, if you can get the escutcheon off and there's a 5mm gap to wiggle them into. There's a few videos on YouTube of 'anti snap' locks being snapped instantly. Most use a ridiculously flawed design which works on the assumption you will only snap it downwards, not upwards...