No heating on the ground floor

[shopwherever]

Earlier I closed all apart the last one. Then it did warm up, othervise is stone cold.

Then you have flow through all the rads. You do not have a (total) blockage. You do need to Balance the radiators. You might need to turn up the pump speed.

I would suggest you balance the rads first; then fit a system filter, then do a chemical clean, then on final fill add X100 corrosion inhibitor; X200 for limescale breakdown, and the new X900 which will loosen remaining sediment so that the particles circulate in the water and can be trapped by the filter. You leave all these chemicals in permanently. Bale out all the mud from the F&E tank before you start work and scrub/wipe it clean. Fit a lid and insulating jacket of not already fitted.

Thanks JohnD!

What do you think this whole job could cost, I would not be able to do it myself?

I'm not keen on the Magnaclean, although it is spectacularly fast at trapping circulating black sludge particles, I think the Spirotech or Sentinel System filter, both made of brass not plastic, are better made and a similar price.

 

[shopwherever]

Earlier I closed all apart the last one. Then it did warm up, othervise is stone cold.

Then you have flow through all the rads. You do not have a (total) blockage. You do need to Balance the radiators. You might need to turn up the pump speed.

I would suggest you balance the rads first; then fit a system filter, then do a chemical clean, then on final fill add X100 corrosion inhibitor; X200 for limescale breakdown, and the new X900 which will loosen remaining sediment so that the particles circulate in the water and can be trapped by the filter. You leave all these chemicals in permanently. Bale out all the mud from the F&E tank before you start work and scrub/wipe it clean. Fit a lid and insulating jacket of not already fitted.

I'm not keen on the Magnaclean, although it is spectacularly fast at trapping circulating black sludge particles, I think the Spirotech or Sentinel System filter, both made of brass not plastic, are better made and a similar price.

Thanks JohnD,
I would not be able to do it myself. What do you think this whole job could cost?

 

[JohnD]

dunno.

what I have described should be less than a days work, though a DIYer might take longer. It is plumbing, you do not open the boiler so you are not obliged to use a gas-safe engineer.

Apart from fitting the system filter, which involves cutting pipes and making sound, watertight joints (perhaps with the aid of PTFE tape) everything else can be done by finding and turning off the stop-cock or float valve and the drain valve(s), putting a hosepipe on the draincock, and pouring bottles of chemical into the F&E tank in the loft, so is within the ability of an active householder who can climb ladders and kneel down.

 

[shopwherever]

dunno.

what I have described should be less than a days work, though a DIYer might take longer. It is plumbing, you do not open the boiler so you are not obliged to use a gas-safe engineer.

Apart from fitting the system filter, which involves cutting pipes and making sound, watertight joints (perhaps with the aid of PTFE tape) everything else can be done by finding and turning off the stop-cock or float valve and the drain valve(s), putting a hosepipe on the draincock, and pouring bottles of chemical into the F&E tank in the loft, so is within the ability of an active householder who can climb ladders and kneel down.

Problem resolved at 02.00 am! After switching off the whole system at 00.30, an hour later I realised that pump and the boiler are still on. The culprit was the motorised valve, it did not close and the boiler was sending the hot water to the hw cylinder not radiators. After manually closing the valve, radiotrs are now working at full heat ! .