No I am worried . . .

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Hello,

I am getting my Ktichen and Conservatory tiled, and the floor in the conservatory is chipboard, I have read elsewhere on this forum that it is not advisable to tile onto chipboard, let alone a suspended floor- is this right? I would rather sort it before I get it all tiled and be posting messages about future defects.

If I CAN tile onto the floor in the conservatory- what do I need to do prep-wise, primer etc?

Thanks Guys and Girls,

Mike
 
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I am getting my Ktichen and Conservatory tiled, and the floor in the conservatory is chipboard, I have read elsewhere on this forum that it is not advisable to tile onto chipboard, let alone a suspended floor- is this right?
It’s perfectly feasible to tile onto a suspended floor providing it’s sufficiently rigid & you use the correct & good quality trade materials. Opinions vary as to what you ahould & shouldn’t do with tiling over chipboard; personally I think it’s ill advised & would never tile directly onto it. If you can’t take it up & replace with 25mm WBP ply, overboard with minimum 12mm WBP & tile onto that. Some swear by over-boarding with 6mm Hardibacker boards is sufficient but I’m dubious about how much rigidity this adds to the floor without bonding as well as screwing & I think I would opt for 12mm boards if anything. We had a recent thread which may be of interest; //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=219913
I would also advise you read the tiling sticky & browse more of the archive posts.

I would rather sort it before I get it all tiled and be posting messages about future defects.
In small bath/shower rooms, 18mm WBP will often be sufficient but a conservatory is going to be a heavy use area & I would be unhappy about tiling onto anything other than 25mm WBP ply but even that would depend on the joist size/spacing & span & rigidity of the floor which is something that can only be assessed locally.

If I CAN tile onto the floor in the conservatory- what do I need to do prep-wise, primer etc?
I would change it for 25mm WBP as above. Does the suspended floor have a damp proof course/membrane between it & the concrete base? Are there any open air bricks? There must be absolutely no chance of moisture getting into the underside & edges of the ply or it could warp & cause tile failure. Normally it’s sufficient t seal the underside/edges with a waterproof SBR sealer to avoid damp getting in but you may need additional precautions if the void below the floor is open to atmosphere. Always follow your chosen adhesive manufacturer’s instructions regarding primer; most cement powder adhesives don’t need it; never use standard PVA to prime a tile base.

What’s the kitchen floor? Does it run through into the cons or is there a threshold break?
 
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What’s the kitchen floor? Does it run through into the cons or is there a threshold break?[/quote]

The Kitchen Floor is Concrete, and the conservatory (which was added later) has a chipboard floor nailed onto joists, as far as I can tell, it is suspended over these joists and insulated underneath and laid onto hardcore. It doesn't seem to "bounce" underfoot.
 
If it bounced underfoot, you would stand absolutely no chance at all. Standard flexible adhesive/grout will only accommodate minimal flex/expansion associated with a well built suspended timber floor; anything significant & you will need to use one of the very much more expensive latex based adhesives; probably cheaper to upgrade the floor.

Also see my thoughts on your other thread. ;)
 
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can you not get a concrete floor put in the conservatory too?

I think it might actually be particle board- i.e "chip board" I beleive the "chips" are quite large- whereas on my floor the "particles" are tiny . . .does this make any difference? Can you tile onto Particle Board?

Thanks again guys . . . .
 
Can you tile onto Particle Board?.
I wouldn't.

I am going to get a couple more quotes, as the guy who quoted me said that it would be a problem as the floor is mounted onto joists and is screwed down, he has also said that I would probably need to use a self levelling compound between the Kitchen (Concrete) and the Conservatory.
 
Can you tile onto Particle Board?.
I wouldn't.

I am going to get a couple more quotes, as the guy who quoted me said that it would be a problem as the floor is mounted onto joists and is screwed down, he has also said that I would probably need to use a self levelling compound between the Kitchen (Concrete) and the Conservatory.

That last post was meant to say the guy who quoted me said it wouldn't be a problem . .
 
That last post was meant to say the guy who quoted me said it wouldn't be a problem . .
Well lots of people say lots of things; it depends who you trust & if the answer your being given is the one you want to hear or not! I'm not quoting your tiling job & have nothing to gain, I'm just offering you advice based on what I know works. The fact that it's "screwed down to the joists" means absolutely nothing; as I said previously, it's all to do with floor rigidity which is determined by the joist size, span & spacing, support noggins at board cross joints, the suitability as a tile base of whatever you screw onto the top of the joists & the type & spacing of the fixings. I always take whatever steps are necessary to achieve as rigid a tile base as possible & will only use the best quality materials. I've never had a single tile failure but read through the archive posts, we get them reported on here all the time & if that happens, it's very often more expensive to sort out than the original cost of the job; but, of course, the decision is yours ;)
 

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