Advice needed . . .

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Hello All,

I am looking to get approx 25m2 of Porcelain 600mm x 600mm tiling done over chipboard in the conservatory and onto concrete in the Kitchen, and I am thinking of getting underfloor heating.

The tiler said I would probably need an insulating board on the concrete and then self levelling compound to even out the floor (the conservatory is approx 3mm higher than the concrete kitchen floor)

he then said I would lay the Electric UF Mats onto this and he would then use flexible tile adhesive on top to then fix the tiles to.

The tiles are beige (ish) and he suggested Grey Grout as Beige Grout "Would get dirty very quickly and you will end up regretting it"

Roughly- how much would this cost?
Is his method sound?
Is he right about the grout colour?

Any advice much appreciated.

Thanks,

Mike
 
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I am looking to get approx 25m2 of Porcelain 600mm x 600mm tiling done over chipboard in the conservatory
As I said in my other post, I wouldn’t advise tiling over chipboard!
and onto concrete in the Kitchen,
If the concrete floor runs through onto the timber you will need to install a decoupling membrane as a minimum but in your case I would go for separation with an expansion joint. if you don’t provide anything, the two dissimilar floor materials will cause it to crack & fail where they meet.
and I am thinking of getting underfloor heating.

The tiler said I would probably need an insulating board on the concrete and then self leveling compound to even out the floor (the conservatory is approx 3mm higher than the concrete kitchen floor)

he then said I would lay the Electric UF Mats onto this and he would then use flexible tile adhesive on top to then fix the tiles to.

The tiles are beige (ish) and he suggested Grey Grout as Beige Grout "Would get dirty very quickly and you will end up regretting it"

Roughly- how much would this cost?
Is his method sound?
Is he right about the grout colour?
Under floor heating needs a lot more consideration when tiling; insulation boards are worth having as they reduce warm up time by reflecting the heat upwards rather than you trying heat up the earth. Electric under floor systems are not all they are cracked up to be IMO & I’ve got one. Your conservatory heating system will need 200 w/sqm to work properly but if your having it in the kitchen as well, around 160 w/sqm will do for that. We have a 22 sq/m cons with a 4Kw u/floor mat & although it copes well, it costs a small fortune to run in winter so we close ours down November through March!

Have you retained an external door between the kitchen & cons? If not, you’re in breach of Building Regulations & your cons become an extension with all the ramifications that has & the problems you will have when you come to sell up. Under floor heating will also require a dedicated circuit(s) which must be installed, tested & certified by a qualified Electrician. I had to have a new consumer unit fitting & partial re-wire before mine could be connected up but that’s another story!

Cost in materials alone is going to be significant if good quality products are used which, along with floor preparation, is the secret to a long lasting tile job; then there is the tillers rate & the sparks fee on top of that.

I would agree with grey grout, it goes with practically everything; beige will get dirty & never use white on floors. Self leveling compound should be used to set the heater mat element before tiling & I wouldn't expect anything other than flexible adhesive & grout.

It sounds as though your tiller may have the experience to make a decent job hat will last but I would advise you get recommendations & ask to see some of his other work, in particular one with an under floor heating system as yours!
 
hi, make sure your concrete is dry before tiles go down. should be at least 6-8 weeks of drying.
and as Richard C says never tile onto chip board. tiles will start comming up next day! marine ply is best. and it should be polly-bonded too.
 
marine ply is best. and it should be polly-bonded too.
The adhesive used in the manufacture of Marine ply will withstand constant, total immersion, as in boat hulls; but the timber itself must be protected. With marine ply, you will also pay a dividend for the decorative facing veneers but, in this application, the top side is covered by tiles & the underside only spiders (or worse) living under your floorboards will see.

The water resistant adhesive used for manufacturing WBP is more than adequate, Marine ply is the best for sure but its an overkill for use as a tile base & even more expensive than WBP; unless you like giving spiders something nice to look at! :LOL:
 
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OK, So I am looking at all the advice given so far (which is great btw), a few more questions, then I will be doen (honest ;) )

- The tiles are Large Format B&Q Polished Porcelain ones, and on the box it says they are coated in a "protective wax" (I cannot see it myself) and that they need sealing before and afterbeing laid- how trues is this, and is it necessary? And if it does, who would you all reccomend do the best sealer?

- What in your humble opinion is the best flexible tile adhesive for floors? (laying 600mm x 600mm Porcelain tiles)

-If I go for a beige grout- will sealing it go some way in protecting the colour? What grout is the best? What sealer?
 
hi, that wax needs to be cleaned off. its hard to see but if you rub the tiles you should be able to feel it. most tile shops sell a cleaner.
if you don't seal them they will mark and stain very easy, shoes will leave prints, wine or tea will soak in ect ect. even marking them with a pencil is impossible to get off.
there is lots of different sealers. go to a tile shop that do mainly stone and porcelain for a good sealer.
bal make good adhesive and grout. i find beige on a floor always goes dirty even when sealed. it will get dirty in the centre and stay clean around the edges of the room where you don't walk as much, this makes it look even worse! where as grey doesn't look much different when dirty.
hope this helps you
noel
 

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