no plt light- potterton netaheat elec 10/16 - safety concern

[jimmyjames]

I think my boiler might have overheated and the pilot won't re-light. Also, of concern is that my 3yr old daughter sleeps in the same room, so should I turn the whole thing off until someone comes to fix it?

I noticed that the dial has been turned round to 4 but was always at 3.5 before. But there is no reset button anywhere. Just a flat black plastic disc where you'd expect to see a button. It's like a dummy button.


It's a closed system (since I had the loft done a few months back) and I see the pressure dial has dropped to 0. So I re-pressurised the system but turning the red knob on top of the red cyclinder thing - but still the pilot won't light.

Is this a faulty gas valve (corgi man job)? If so, what might it cost to fix up? We're moving soon and I don't want to replace the boiler if I can help it but it's prob way over 10yrs old.

Or might this be a simple enough fix to do myself. The last guy that came was awful and charged a bomb just to replace the PCB.

Really appreciate some guidance here as my pregnant wife is moaning about the cold and there doesn't even seem to be an immersion switch so no hot water either.[/b]

 

[cowley]

Hi potterton neata-heat boilers do not have permanent pilots,turn the boiler thermostat knob on front of boiler (inside slideing cover) clockwise to max, is the fan running? can you hear it, if it is look into small sight window can you see a spark? if not you probably will require a new pcb.
Your boiler is a room sealed appliance so it is quite safe if you want to leave on, also there is no overheat switch fitted to that model.
Goodluck Mick.

 

[Meldrew's mate]

Just a word of caution along with some hints and tips.
First, and most important. Don't take the cover off the boiler; this is a positive pressure boiler, and if the case seal is damaged it will discharge products of combustion into the room where your daughter is sleeping.

So here are a couple of tips to help you diagnose if it's the boiler or something external to it. I am assuming the tester knows basic electrical safety.

Check the following:-
1. Is the programmer calling for heat (multimeter needed). 240vac between "CH ON" and Neutral? CH ON is usually pin 4.
2. Mains between "HW ON" and Neutral (usually pin 3)?
3. Do you have a room thermostat? If so check the output is on, with the multimeter. (stat set to a high temperature)
4. Does the pump circulate the water? Check for 240vac across L and N here....If there's none here the chances are the fault lies external to the boiler (not a boiler fault)

Other than that I recommend you get a CORGI registered installer to check out the boiler, and make sure he demonstrates the case is air-tight before he/she leaves. That last bit is a legal requirement if the case seal is disturbed (ie opened)

Can't stress enough the need to make sure this boiler is safe once it's working. Don't let the whinge from the wife persuade you to cut corners on this boiler. Rather a whinge than silence

Post back once you have done the electrical tests.

MM

 

[Agile]

I noticed that the dial has been turned round to 4 but was always at 3.5 before. But there is no reset button anywhere. Just a flat black plastic disc where you'd expect to see a button. It's like a dummy button.

It's a closed system (since I had the loft done a few months back) and I see the pressure dial has dropped to 0. So I re-pressurised the system but turning the red knob on top of the red cyclinder thing - but still the pilot won't light.

.[/b]

If its a sealed system then the boiler should have been fitted with a modification kit WITH an o/h stat !

The stat is usually behind the lower part which covers the PCB etc. and is manually resettable.

Its highly dangerous to operate the boiler on a sealed system without an o/h stat !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

We charge £84 plus £104 for the PCB to replace it. How much did your engineer charge?

Tony

 

[jimmyjames]

Thanks for the responses. Will try to answer here.

The fan does engage when I turn the dial all the way clockwise (ie to 4) and then there is a single clicking noise. Usually just after the click the boiler fires, but it's not firing, even though when I look through the sight window there is a tiny repeating spark. I've checked that the main room stat is up and the heating and hot water are flipped to constant when performing this check.

Does this suggest a problem with the PCB or the gas valve? I took the bottom panel off just to check there were no loose connections (isolating the electricity supply first) and all seems to be fine. The PCB was replaced about 4 years ago at a cost of £350 all in.

The question now is, if it does seem to be the PCB based on what I describe. It doesn't look particularly tricky to fit. Just a bunch of wires going into it - and it's less than £100 part - is it safe to attempt this myself or get an expert in?

(BTW - Meldrew's mate - thanks for your advice but I haven't done the checks you suggest as I don't have the right tool - or leccy know how!)

 

[weareleeds]

It would be most unusual to be pcb if it is only 4 years old (in over 30 years i have never changed one). If you say it is sparking but not lighting pilot (not permanent pilot) i would be looking at blocked pilot injector or gas valve

 

[twgas]

turn it off and get someone in who knows what they are doing, a sealed system, which you say you now have, must have an upgrade on this boiler, also some vital parts on the system are required which i would suspect were not fitted as the installer never seemed bothered about the boiler being suitable.

 

[giblets]

As has already been said DO NOT PLAY WITH IT YOURSELF. IMHO these boiler should never have been permitted to be installed in bedrooms.

Can you hear a loudish "click" when the sparking starts? If not, then sound like it may be the gas valve which is no longer available for the Electronic range.

 

[jimmyjames]

Yes it is a loudish click. But that's it. it just fails to fire.

 

[Meldrew's mate]

If it's sparking at the pilot there is a chance the GV has failed or, as has been said, the pilot injector is blocked.

Does the pilot show even the faintest sign of trying to light when it sparks? If so you MUST get a CORGI installer in to fix it (blocked pilot injector). If not check there is gas to the house (does the hob work?). Otherwise it's the GV. Depending on the model I may have an old one in the garage, but I'll only send it to a CORGI bloke.

No apologies for being so precious on this one, it's just the combination of this boiler in child's bedroom with pregnant wife, etc, etc, which has all the halmarks of death & disaster if not done properly.

 

[Agile]

If its a sealed system then the boiler should have been fitted with a modification kit WITH an o/h stat !

The stat is usually behind the lower part which covers the PCB etc. and is manually resettable.

Its highly dangerous to operate the boiler on a sealed system without an o/h stat !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Tony

Was it a proper CORGI who converted to a sealed system???

If there is an o/h stat then it might just need resetting. Does anyone remember how they are wired?

Tony

 

[jimmyjames]

Otherwise it's the GV. Depending on the model I may have an old one in the garage, but I'll only send it to a CORGI bloke.

Just had a corgi bloke round who said he'd punt it on being the gas valve - discontinued! Don't suppose you fancy selling mew that GV?

He is registered alright - I checked his number on the corgi website

The boiler is called Potterton Netaheat 10-16 Electronic - Serial: GUK1.1.3.8.7.5

Let me know