Help. My Potterton PTT2 cylinder thermostat control seems to work ok to start with & is ok when HW on programmer is on, but starts making a noisy drilling/ringing sound (& orange & green lights on it start flashing) when it makes the noise. It does this when the central heating programmer timer turns the hot water off at it’s set time. The thermostat’s green light was on indicating temperature not reached, but the hot water was ok. I set the programmer to come on for only half an hour & that’s enough hot water for me. It didn’t seem to be stopping itself so I ended up turning the boiler off at the spur switch (next to the central heating programmer) & setting the boiler to 0 setting & it stopped then. The other day it also set off the room thermostat & programmer with the vibrating noise.
I’ve been looking online for info as to what the problem is but haven’t come across exactly this problem.
I have a Honeywell 3 port motorised valve (raised dimple on metal actuator) – on the back it says V4073A 1039-7 & for head replacement it says 40003916-03
I tried doing some tests that someone suggested for checking a 3 port motorised valve.
1. I turned the power off at the spur switch & set the boiler to 0 (programmer initially still lit due to battery) TO RESET THE VALVE TO IT’S DEFAULT POSITION.
2. I tried moving the Honeywell valve actuator from AUTO to MANUAL – I felt RESISTANCE & couldn’t move it further than roughly the middle bit. The auto to manual lever stayed in this position It didn’t move back to the auto end). I didn’t try forcing it when I met resistance so maybe I should have done this to make it go back automatically then – I don’t know.
3 I turned the room thermostat & cylinder thermostat to their lowest settings. I turned the power to the central heating back on & set the boiler on low setting (which is what I usually have it on). I set the programmer to HW only – boiler came on immediate (without needing to turn the cylinder thermostat up – lowest it goes is 45.
The auto to manual lever on the Honeywell actuator was roughly just before the middle (where it was when I tried to see how far it would go before meeting resistance – I forget if I left it here when I released it after trying it when I turned the power off – don’t know.
Pipe to cylinder was getting warm/boiler still on.
4 I turned the central heating on & the room thermostat up & could hear the noises radiators make as they heat up. I couldn’t listen to hear if the valve moved as suggested as I had to go downstairs to turn room thermostat up.
5 I turned HW off on central heating programmer (put it on low setting where it’s normally off ). CH still on – set to continuous on programmer setting. I turned the central heating room thermostat down
Only the CH was still on set to continuous on the Potterton EP 6000 programmer, but room thermostat was turned down. I think the boiler was now unlit (not sure) because the boiler was now making a knocking vibrating noise. I checked upstairs & the Potterton Cylinder thermostat was flashing & making a noise even though HW was TURNED OFF at the programmer in terms of set times (& set to low where it’s normally off) – only CH was set to continuous.
Any ideas as to what’s wrong. Do I need a new Potterton Cylinder thermostat, a new 3 port valve, or just the actuator powerhead or is it something else.
I’ve been looking online for info as to what the problem is but haven’t come across exactly this problem.
I have a Honeywell 3 port motorised valve (raised dimple on metal actuator) – on the back it says V4073A 1039-7 & for head replacement it says 40003916-03
I tried doing some tests that someone suggested for checking a 3 port motorised valve.
1. I turned the power off at the spur switch & set the boiler to 0 (programmer initially still lit due to battery) TO RESET THE VALVE TO IT’S DEFAULT POSITION.
2. I tried moving the Honeywell valve actuator from AUTO to MANUAL – I felt RESISTANCE & couldn’t move it further than roughly the middle bit. The auto to manual lever stayed in this position It didn’t move back to the auto end). I didn’t try forcing it when I met resistance so maybe I should have done this to make it go back automatically then – I don’t know.
3 I turned the room thermostat & cylinder thermostat to their lowest settings. I turned the power to the central heating back on & set the boiler on low setting (which is what I usually have it on). I set the programmer to HW only – boiler came on immediate (without needing to turn the cylinder thermostat up – lowest it goes is 45.
The auto to manual lever on the Honeywell actuator was roughly just before the middle (where it was when I tried to see how far it would go before meeting resistance – I forget if I left it here when I released it after trying it when I turned the power off – don’t know.
Pipe to cylinder was getting warm/boiler still on.
4 I turned the central heating on & the room thermostat up & could hear the noises radiators make as they heat up. I couldn’t listen to hear if the valve moved as suggested as I had to go downstairs to turn room thermostat up.
5 I turned HW off on central heating programmer (put it on low setting where it’s normally off ). CH still on – set to continuous on programmer setting. I turned the central heating room thermostat down
Only the CH was still on set to continuous on the Potterton EP 6000 programmer, but room thermostat was turned down. I think the boiler was now unlit (not sure) because the boiler was now making a knocking vibrating noise. I checked upstairs & the Potterton Cylinder thermostat was flashing & making a noise even though HW was TURNED OFF at the programmer in terms of set times (& set to low where it’s normally off) – only CH was set to continuous.
Any ideas as to what’s wrong. Do I need a new Potterton Cylinder thermostat, a new 3 port valve, or just the actuator powerhead or is it something else.
