Non starting escort diesel

Joined
19 Mar 2013
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Location
Hampshire
Country
United Kingdom
Hello,

Anyone have any idea what might be up with it? I've had the battery off and it's fully charged, all the connections have been cleaned up and nothing!

Go to start it and all you get is a single click then nothing - completely dead, has to be electrical hasn't it?
 
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If your sure all the connections are good, I'd have the battery tested properly.
 
Thanks for the quick reply, plenty of power in the battery - if it were petrol i'd be looking at the plugs and points but it being a diesel has lost me tbh
 
You said,
"Go to start it and all you get is a single click then nothing - completely dead"
If all the connections are good, check the battery again.
 
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Yes electrical, as above bad connection.
Try a jump lead from the battery + to the starter big red wire and go for a start at the key?
Try a jump lead from the - on the batter to the body of the starter and go for a start on the key?

Or jump from another car to the starter + and earth? Then try at the key?

Have you power (a bulb will tell you) going down to the little wire on the solenoid when you go for a start on the key? If not check connections/fuses.
But do usually don't get a CLICKING SOUND if this wire is dead.
 
If the battery is charged then it sounds like the starter motor, try giving it a whack with a hammer.

Normally a quick / rough way to check the battery is to switch the headlights on and try and start the car, if the battery is ok then the lights should dim slightly. If they go really dim or off then the battery is flat or u/s. Unfortunately a faulty starter can also cause excess current drain so this test isn't really much use here (sorry).
 
Try a jump lead from the battery + to the starter big red wire and go for a start at the key?
:eek:

This is to ensure the positive terminal on the battery has a good connection to the positive terminal on the starter. For example jump across a dirty or bad connection.
Sorry I wasn't clearer, just trying to help
 
I realise that, I just wouldn't have thought it a sensible thing to do given the amount of metalwork in the vicinity, and the unforgiving nature of an unfused connection across the battery.

If you want to check for bad connections/leads, a multimeter across the same two connections should demonstrate this by indicating any significant volt drop on cranking. Anything more than 0.5V in the display would IMHO need investigating.
 
Apologies for any confusion caused or unsafe procedures I have given to Ukelad.

It will not happen again
 
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