Thanks for that desktop. Yes a circulation issue does seem to be the consensus and will investigate with my plumber. The only thing is, I thought the boiler temperature would need to be much higher say 80 or so for it to short cycle. Can I be sure the boiler is working ok?
Not Getting Hot Enough!
- Thread starter Nelly B
- Start date
Is the system sealed or open vent?
If the flow is only reaching 64degC on max then it's not an overheat causing it to cycle, if that was the case then it wouldn't normally run for ages, usually an overheat occurs relatively quickly on a boiler that can't get rid of it's heat. With this one it seems the boiler is reaching set temp and that's when it short cycles.
How is the new pump set up?
If the flow is only reaching 64degC on max then it's not an overheat causing it to cycle, if that was the case then it wouldn't normally run for ages, usually an overheat occurs relatively quickly on a boiler that can't get rid of it's heat. With this one it seems the boiler is reaching set temp and that's when it short cycles.
How is the new pump set up?
Tank feed / open vent id be checking pipework with a magnet around open vent/ cold feed area.
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@desktop987456 has a point, I tend to forget not everyone uses electronic TRV heads which give a code if jammed etc. My wall thermostat and two out of 10 TRV heads produce graphs
so I can see how they have preformed.
If one radiator valves are stuck wide open, the returning hot water can cause the boiler to modulate, same with a by-pass valve. We tend to look for blockages, rather than the reverse. Only takes someone to have opened a lock shield valve as they were cold, to upset the whole system.
so I can see how they have preformed.If one radiator valves are stuck wide open, the returning hot water can cause the boiler to modulate, same with a by-pass valve. We tend to look for blockages, rather than the reverse. Only takes someone to have opened a lock shield valve as they were cold, to upset the whole system.
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