Got this planed piece of oak to make a mantlepiece 140cm x 16cm x 16cm...its very heavy i guess as is not dried out...not sure of how it was processed as i bought it online...would appreciate any advice on how to best go about treating it, and then securing on wall...the chimney breast its going on has been constructed with hollow blocks and then a layer of cement (house is in Italy)...the breast is then going to be tiled all over...not sure if better to add mantlepiece and then tile around it or put on after tiling. Also whats best way to secure it to wall?
Oak mantlepiece
- Thread starter Richely
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- #mantlepiece #oak
By the cracking, it looks fairly dry to me but that doesn't necessarily mean it's seasoned. You'd need to know when it was cut and how long, how, where it was stored thereafter. If you don't have time on your hands then you could just install it now. I've always used Briwax on the ones I've done - as long as it's not going to be too close to an open fire. For woodburner it should be ok (that's what ours was).
Fixing it: You could do a floating shelf but you'll need a pillar drill so you can drill in squarely. The pegs need to go in dead centre otherwise it will tilt towards or away from the wall. I'd use 4 heavy duty floating shelf brackets. Or 1 of these at either end:
https://amzn.eu/d/0bZf1yO5 although you'd need to cut a bit off those pegs as they're a bit too long and would go all the way through.
You also need to chisel in a recess so the plate for the brackets sits in it, so the shelf can sit flush against the wall. I'd tile afterwards, otherwise you'll have to drill into tile, and mount on top of tile, which is a risk of cracking depending on what type of tile it is
Fixing it: You could do a floating shelf but you'll need a pillar drill so you can drill in squarely. The pegs need to go in dead centre otherwise it will tilt towards or away from the wall. I'd use 4 heavy duty floating shelf brackets. Or 1 of these at either end:
https://amzn.eu/d/0bZf1yO5 although you'd need to cut a bit off those pegs as they're a bit too long and would go all the way through.
You also need to chisel in a recess so the plate for the brackets sits in it, so the shelf can sit flush against the wall. I'd tile afterwards, otherwise you'll have to drill into tile, and mount on top of tile, which is a risk of cracking depending on what type of tile it is
Use threaded bar and resin fix to wood/wall....very easy to do. Take your time, measure 3 times, drill etc etc...
Support wood while resin goes off (very fast!)
Support wood while resin goes off (very fast!)
Yes this is easier, but brackets allow you to remove easily if required
Thanks both, thats good info, i see some companies supply beams with hangers on the back like a picture hook to hang on screws in the wall, but im a bit worried that wont be strong enough...so drilling a bar in sounds better...getting it squarely drilled will prob be a challenge but i guess theres a bit of wiggle room. I will see what brackets or threaded bars are available here. I was thinking to put onto tiles in case the wood still has some movement after its fixed...i could put any bars into the wall prior to tiling though.
If you are tiling simple flat bars screwed to rear of timber then to wall , tile over to hide.3or4 would be very secure .
I wouldn't go that route.
Threaded bar is the best as you can drill a larger hole in the timber x 3....clean out holes. Pump in resin. Slide in threaded bars making sure they are almost 90 degrees each.
Mark wall. Drill out 3 holes, clean out holes, pump in resin. Offer up wood and hold in place temporarily until set.
Job done. Solid as Gibraltar rock!
But not so easy to get alignment spot on .
When oak dries it will leave a gap to wall as it shrinks .
Mine is secured using an offset round bar with a screw type thread on the piece in the wall, then you alter the position of the offset to “tighten” the mantlepiece onto the round bar. Fits snug, easy to remove to decorate etc.
Nope, alignment is very easy if measured correctly.
As for shrinkage, you get that with your method too.
Resin fixing is the go to for oak mantels.
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thats the rubbish pith leftover after the mill has plain sawed the good stuff - look at the shrinkage cracks in it, and it may still get worse, that bit normally gores in the fire not above it.
I do appreciate that some want this rustic look, but basically you are recreating something that was originally badly done.
Some, me included, like the very rustic, natural look....
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