hi, im new to all this. I had a 3amp fuse in my small freezer,the freezer acted more like a fridge....i bought a new freezer, put the 3 amp fuse in the new freezer without thinking (as had to cut off moulded plug to get through worktop) and the same thing happened. Put the correct 13amp fuse in and it started working properly. Would the wrong fuse case this problem or am i imagining it?
The fuse has just two states it is either conducting or ruptured so although being too small could cause it to rupture (blow) it can't cause the freezer to work like a fridge.
In the main we plug in a freezer and never check the temperature. At least I have. When I tested my mothers freezer with a Energy meter and found it was not switching off I tried to buy a thermometer local and failed.
I did buy a temperature controller really for my beer but it was able to display freezer temperatures. Both my freezers have read outs showing temperature and both were within 0.5°C of what the temperature controller showed.
Mothers house and the main freezer was at -14°C instead of -18°C and I had to adjust the small freezer more like -24°C and so thermostat was renewed. After it was renewed I was surprised to find instead of freezer running until -18°C it switched off at -12°C then after some time switched on again. Each time it ran the temperature went down a little bit when I left it was -16°C I would assume it would in the fullness of time reach the magic -18°C.
Since in this very small freezer the evaporator is not exposed I would guess the pocket for the thermostat probe is closer to the evaporator than my temperature controller probe hence the time it takes to get to temperature.
All the other freezers I tested were frost free which means they has a fan circulating the air ensuring an even temperature but the small 32 litre LEC freezer had no fan.
The temperature controller could be read with probe wire going into freezer so all readings with door closed. On opening the door very quickly the temperature recorded went up so one must assume any thermometer what has to be removed to read will read on the high side.
Before getting the temperature controller I used a more basic method. I mixed water and salt and made a saturated solution. I placed this in freezer to see if it froze. Since freezing point of brine is -18°C this is quite a good method.
Although my new freezer and fridge/freezer have temperature read outs which activate as soon as the door is opened this is unusual. Also although my fridge/freezer has an inverter motor and allows the fridge and freezer temperatures to be set individually that is also unusual.
So small 32 litre freezer maximum current draw is 4.85 amps normal running 0.15 amp. The large fridge/freezer maximum 0.91 amps normal running 0.24 amps. The 0.91 amp will be the size of the de-frost element because inverter controlled motor the start up current is very little different to run current. I did not measure amps with the older fridge/freezer but did record the maximum watts at 2259 so would be around the 10A mark. On that unit run watts was 82.
Other than inverter units the volt drop on start is rather important which is why the instructions say not to use extension leads. I would expect the freezer as supplied has a 13A fuse.
