Old machinist lamps for kitchen.

[Begazzz]

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Hi guys. First post so hope you can see images of the lamps (x6) I'm sorting for kitchen. They are steel construction with the black joints being plastic therefore I have no continuation of earth. I have started to put an external earth loops on them but it looks terrible so thinking about double insulation but would like your opinions.

They will be wall mounted high up in a vaulted ceiling.

Intending to use standard two core 5amp wire with insulation on copper/outer insulation then I will add an addition sheath running the full length potentially earthing lamp shade section. (Running 3w led spot).

They will be connected via a connector block recessed into wall which will be covered by the base.

Your opinions on the safety of this method would be greatly appreciated as I'm going round in circles now the fun bit of painting and cleaning is finished.

Thanks dom

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• Begazzz
• 30 Jun 2014
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• Begazzz
• 30 Jun 2014
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• Begazzz
• 30 Jun 2014
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[ericmark]

Double insulated items are type tested clearly you don't have this option so to keep within the rules extra low voltage is the only method.

My father had a 60w fluorescent in the kitchen as far back as I can remember at first they were designed to simply plug into the BA22d bulb holder latter they were screwed direct to ceiling non were double insulated and we never had a problem. Many like my dad just ignore the safety aspect and do it anyway and get away with it. Every now and again it all goes wrong.

Using RCD protection can reduce the risk but you can still get a belt the only real way is extra low voltage.

Lamps like you show were common on machines and most were 25 volt with huge cast iron transformers I still have one in my garage. I think you can still get the 25v bulbs.

Today laptop power supplies are much smaller and still 25 volt so it could be done. But only you can decide how far to go.

 

[Begazzz]

Thanks for that. I guess what I'm doing is trying to ensure that they are as safe as possible by replicating what I would do if I were going to type test the lamps. I thoroughly appreciate that it is unlikely that this will be achieved to the latest regulations but as these lights will not be within reach / will not be adjusted. So the potential for a short or wiring failure would be extremely rare providing my workmanship and fastidious approach their installation are as good as they can be.

I believe that I can 'armour' the wiring to a high enough standard to negate the need for earth and ensure that the body of the lamp will not become live should 'any one failure occur'

I have seen many steel bodied double insulated 240v light fittings that are of dubious quality that are widely available leading me to believe that what I wish to do would be adequate and safe although not approved.

I guess it's just something I wanted to reassure myself with really.

Many thanks

 

[ericmark]

As I said we have all done things which don't comply and got away with it. I would however use RCD protection.

 

[Begazzz]

I guess that sums it up really. I haven't yet I'm fitting a new consumer unit and will have a dedicated rcd for the kitchen lights as I got carried away and got one so big I could have one for each light and socket in the house.

Thanks for your input.

 

[333rocky333]

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• Begazzz
• 30 Jun 2014
• 1

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• Begazzz
• 30 Jun 2014
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[dannyboi2003]

What about running them on 12v and using halogen capsule or spot lamps, better still use LED?

 

[SimonH2]

Could you just replace the cable with 3 core ?