Old rad valve tails

You can borrow mine if you're anywhere near Bath, then again I have to go down the Sussex in the near future.

The step wrench micky posted is fine with a socket set, or you can buy a bigger version for use with a spanner.
 
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EH the picture seco put up the rad spanner has slots in it on opposite end that fit, basic rad spanner..

Whats all this nonsense about using heat etc rads are going to look lovely after that :rolleyes:
Take the whole valve off and put back onto tail and holdin the valve with pair of grips tighten the tail nut onto it with stilies and it will come out in seconds
 
Like your style Namsag, doneitall ;)

Secos basic spanner won't fit 3/4" rad valves, do try and keep up :LOL:
 
DIA keep up how is he replacing 3/4 valves with 15mm he means the nut not the tail into the rad so seco spanner will fit.
 
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You can borrow mine if you're anywhere near Bath, then again I have to go down the Sussex in the near future.
That's a kind offer, my mother actually lives in London E11 so I would have to post it back to you though

@ namsag I broke the corner off my steel rad key, they wouldn't come out with me kneeling on the rad and heaving with all my strength so I fear the brass rad valve body would break. Good idea though.

Yes, the tails look like they might have hemp and boss white in the thread (maybe rust as well)
 
johnd it not a good idea its the easiest way rad spanners are now made of ****e metal it will move using my method, 30 years and thousands done never had a stubborn one not come out.

IF your absolutly feked cut the nut off and use stilies on tail
 
@ namsag: you mean do up the captive tail nut onto the rad valve to lock it, then big stilsons on the nut? Or on the valve body?

(the tails is smooth and round on the outside, just has these nibs in the throat)

I have some unusually big adustable Footprints, (my old dad used to work with threaded gas-barrel iron pipe and I kept some of his tools)
 
easiest way i find getting tails out is to tighten anold valve on to the tail.Overtighten the valve union and then with a large set of crescents of stillys turn the valve this'll bring the tail out with it. Works every time.
 
I like this thread, it's attracted the attention of the experienced plumbers!

:LOL: :LOL:
 
Yep tighten right on to valve body with stilies on the nut holding valve body so it tightens right on and nut stops tutning on tail and it will just come out
 
will give that a try when I go up next weekend, thanks. I might use a propane torch (to heat the tail) if it doesn't seem to work, but I don't want to blister the paint

I still like the look of that stepped grooved 1/2" drive tool, though :confused:
 
When you get the tail out which I'm sure you will, get doitalls key and an angle grinder/dremel or similar and grind out some grooves in the key to make a snug fit. It will come in handy for next time. :D

Easy job for engineer.
 
FEK give someone advice and he slags you off calling you a plumber , :evil:
 

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