My kitchen radiator is filling with hot water despite my TRV being set to 0.
This goes for two TRVs...
- Basic programmable Bluetooth one that uses a motorised push-pin.
- Old basic TRV with settings 0-5.
On removal of TRV, the pin goes up and down. Not loads, but I'm not sure how much it should.
Pages online suggest this problem may relate to diverter valve / check valve. I also saw a video where the chap fiddles with the lockshield end.
- Logic combi boiler is new, was installed in February 2022, replacing old boiler.
- I removed the programmable valve in September to reset it/changed batteries for the winter.
- Last month, I also attempted to bleed the rads and repressurised the boiler a bit. Current pressure is 2.1-2.2 when making hot water. Above the kitchen/utility area is the towel rail I fiddled with last month (@terryplumb).
- I have repeatedly pushed the radiator pin up and down manually to check for movement, in case something there was stuck.
- I have checked that the push-in of the programmable TRV with the motor does actually move up and down, and it does.
- Today, I put the basic old valve back on, replacing the slightly fancier one, to check whether it was the TRV at fault. But it's still happening.
- The pipe on the right, without the TRV, gets hot first. That's the lockshield end, right?
+ I have applied WD-40 to the valve pin.
Kitchen radiator is adjacent toboiler in utility room containing boiler. Kitchen rad is the only one to come on without asking like this.
It makes a hissing-water sound until I push the pin down with a finger or object, which I think closes the gate.
And it makes that hissing-water sound at TRV 0, though it is quieter at anything above 0.
What's going on here?
This goes for two TRVs...
- Basic programmable Bluetooth one that uses a motorised push-pin.
- Old basic TRV with settings 0-5.
On removal of TRV, the pin goes up and down. Not loads, but I'm not sure how much it should.
Pages online suggest this problem may relate to diverter valve / check valve. I also saw a video where the chap fiddles with the lockshield end.
- Logic combi boiler is new, was installed in February 2022, replacing old boiler.
- I removed the programmable valve in September to reset it/changed batteries for the winter.
- Last month, I also attempted to bleed the rads and repressurised the boiler a bit. Current pressure is 2.1-2.2 when making hot water. Above the kitchen/utility area is the towel rail I fiddled with last month (@terryplumb).
- I have repeatedly pushed the radiator pin up and down manually to check for movement, in case something there was stuck.
- I have checked that the push-in of the programmable TRV with the motor does actually move up and down, and it does.
- Today, I put the basic old valve back on, replacing the slightly fancier one, to check whether it was the TRV at fault. But it's still happening.
- The pipe on the right, without the TRV, gets hot first. That's the lockshield end, right?
+ I have applied WD-40 to the valve pin.
Kitchen radiator is adjacent to
It makes a hissing-water sound until I push the pin down with a finger or object, which I think closes the gate.
And it makes that hissing-water sound at TRV 0, though it is quieter at anything above 0.
What's going on here?
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