Modify TRV so that combi boiler always has a heat dump?

[JohnD]

I don't currently have a room thermostat, but yes, if I install one I would remove the TRV from the radiator in that room.

Get started.

Not "if."


I also have no TRV on my hall radiator, on the grounds that it is the coldest part of the house, and if heat is needed anywhere, it needs to be on.

 

[JohnD]

It's a manual valve, not a lockshield on the other end of each radiator. Do people use the terms manual and lockshield valve interchangeably? I thought a manual valve is one that can be turned by hand whereas a lockshield needs a spanner.

That's just a matter of putting a plastic operating knob on.

 

[Madrab]

It's a manual valve, not a lockshield on the other end of each radiator

Every manual valve is in essence a lockshield, they just have the turn cap removed and a cover cap fitted so they can't be hand turned.

Any reason you don't have any kind of thermostat? TRV's are not a reliable way to control a rooms heat and they are dumb so can't control the boiler

What boiler is it?

 

[tonton]

Every manual valve is in essence a lockshield, they just have the turn cap removed and a cover cap fitted so they can't be hand turned.

Any reason you don't have any kind of thermostat? TRV's are not a reliable way to control a rooms heat and they are dumb so can't control the boiler

What boiler is it?

It's a Glow-worm 24ci, it must have been installed around 10 years ago or more, before I moved in.

I could put a thermostat in the hallway and use that radiator as the ABV. I don't know why there isn't a thermostat, maybe its age or the original owner wanted a cheaper installation? Hopefully there's good wireless one I could get, that will be compatible with the boiler?

 

[JohnD]

Put it in the room you use most.

 

[Madrab]

A bit of an old one then, non condensing, has the manual clock (or if really flush the LCD clock) on the front?

That model does have an built in (internal) autobypass and it is adjustable If I remember correctly. Get the MI for the boiler and have a read through. It also uses volt free contacts so any volt free switching, wireless programmable stat will work. It will also take a SL but no need to use that really.

 

[BlueLoo]

Put it in the room you use most.

Not quite.
Put it in the coldest room of the zone you are heating.

It's no good having this in the living room with the open fire roaring and the the rest of the downstairs being freezing with the missus shivering in the drawing room.
It's no good putting it in the kitchen which self heats during dinner times and the husband dithering in the living room.

However, if your zone is just one room, then yes, put it in that room (but turn the TRV to full).

 

[tonton]

A bit of an old one then, non condensing, has the manual clock (or if really flush the LCD clock) on the front?

That model does have an built in (internal) autobypass and it is adjustable If I remember correctly. Get the MI for the boiler and have a read through. It also uses volt free contacts so any volt free switching, wireless programmable stat will work. It will also take a SL but no need to use that really.

It has an LCD temperature display and a manual clock. I'm used to it, but maybe a new thermostat will have a better interface.

I'll take a look at the manual. The reason I thought something is wrong with the design is the awful noises it made when all the radiators were closed and the heating on, the display also flashed up an error message, I didn't catch the error code though.

 

[tonton]

Not quite.
Put it in the coldest room of the zone you are heating.

It's no good having this in the living room with the open fire roaring and the the rest of the downstairs being freezing with the missus shivering in the drawing room.
It's no good putting it in the kitchen which self heats during dinner times and the husband dithering in the living room.

However, if your zone is just one room, then yes, put it in that room (but turn the TRV to full).

It's a small flat on one level. All rooms are accessed off the hallway and the hallway has internal walls so it seems an ok place to put it. I suppose if it's wireless though, you can experiment with the location.

 

[Madrab]

It has an LCD temperature display and a manual clock. I'm used to it, but maybe a new thermostat will have a better interface.

I'll take a look at the manual. The reason I thought something is wrong with the design is the awful noises it made when all the radiators were closed and the heating on, the display also flashed up an error message, I didn't catch the error code though.

Is it making banging/whoosing/boiling noises? If so then that sounds typically as if it's kettling due to no flow through the Main HEX when all the TRV's are shut, not good for the pump either pushing against a closed head, not what you want to be doing to an older boiler. The auto bypass should catch that but given it's age then it's may be restricted or needs adjusted

 

[tonton]

Exactly those noises. It had a new heat exchanger installed last year. I'll ask the engineer about adjusting the auto bypass.

 

[Mike13]

It's a manual valve, not a lockshield on the other end of each radiator. Do people use the terms manual and lockshield valve interchangeably? I thought a manual valve is one that can be turned by hand whereas a lockshield needs a spanner.

They are the same actual valve, just a different plastic cover on them

 

[fixitflav]

so I'd have to replace that as well to remove the possibility of all the radiators getting closed.

I don't see any need for that. Just open it and tell all the occupants to leave it alone. For extra safety you could replace the plastic wheel with a decorative cap (that can't be used to operate the valve)