I have 2 outside light that keep exploding. It could be a day after I put the bulb in or it could last a week. No reason why they would explode. Checked all wires none loose. They are dusk to dawn lights. Anybody have any Ideas what could be wrong.
outside lights keep exploding
- Thread starter martyjacob
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proper voltage? you have 2 over there don't you?
115 and 220?
might be that the lights have been wired on the 220V line?
115 and 220?
might be that the lights have been wired on the 220V line?
P
Paul_C
I wouldn't have thought the light could have been wired across 240V accidentally, or I doubt that some lamps would last as long as a week.
But intermittent excess voltage on the lamp could be caused by a bad neutral connection somewhere. If it was the main incoming neutral from the supply you'd almost certainly notice the effects elsewhere as well, but if the exterior light is fed from a multi-wire branch circuit or a sub-panel, you might want to check for loose or corroded neutral connections.
But intermittent excess voltage on the lamp could be caused by a bad neutral connection somewhere. If it was the main incoming neutral from the supply you'd almost certainly notice the effects elsewhere as well, but if the exterior light is fed from a multi-wire branch circuit or a sub-panel, you might want to check for loose or corroded neutral connections.
Wire is under ground and is not very deep. The last home owner told me and he is the one how installed them. I will check the voltage first. Then if it is not that pull up the wire to me sure it is not cut or spliced some where. Think that sounds good yes or no ? Is there another way to test the wire without pulling it up?
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P
Paul_C
Is that just a 2-wire (black & white) plus ground cable? If so, then a bad connection there couldn't cause excess voltage. You're looking for a neutral which is common to loads which are fed from both sides of the supply.
It's hard to be more specific witout seeing the installation and knowing the circuit arrangements.
I know it's not the bulbs overheating the light is rated for 100 watts and I put 40 watts in and 75 watts they all do the same.
When you say I have supplied from both sides what do you mean only have black , white and ground wires. How can it be supplied from both sides.
When you say I have supplied from both sides what do you mean only have black , white and ground wires. How can it be supplied from both sides.
P
Paul_C
Unless the service to your home is very old, it will be a 3-wire service: Two "hots" plus a neutral. The regular lights & receptacles around the house are run with two wires (not counting the ground) to get 120V, with some circuits fed from one hot and neutral of the incoming supply and some fed from the other hot & neutral to balance the load. Larger appliances such a stove, dryer, central air etc. are connected across both hots to get 240V.
Even though the feed to the lights is only 2-wire 120V, at some point that will be connected to the neutral which is shared by circuits which are run from the opposite side of the supply (i.e. the other hot wire). A poor connection on the shared neutral can mean that anything connected beyond that point can experience higher or lower than normal voltage, depending upon what else is connected to the circuits in question at the time.
does that mean the white wire is hot too. If so how can I tell????
P
Paul_C
No, the white wire running out to your 120V lights shouldn't be hot. If you trace backwards from that cable toward the source of power, at some point the white from that cable will be joined to a neutral which is shared by other loads - It might be a wire-nutted connection in the back of a receptacle box, or it might be a neutral busbar in a circuit-breaker/fuse panel. It's a bad or intermittent connection at some point where the neutral is shared which can cause excess voltage to appear on the circuit.
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The US 220 volt supply is similar to UK 110 volt supply in it has a centre tap to earth. But in US you also use that centre tap where in UK it is only for safety. So any bad connection on the centre tap can cause the voltage to vary and this will mean that if there is a load on that phase the voltage can go below 110 but as the load is reduced it can rise well over 110 volt.
So I would be looking for a bad connection on the neutral supply.
Sometime we get it in UK as we are supplied with 3 phase 400 volt and one phase (230v) to each house but in our case everything in house would have varying voltage. But you split after it enters house so it could effect just a few circuits.
So I would be looking for a bad connection on the neutral supply.
Sometime we get it in UK as we are supplied with 3 phase 400 volt and one phase (230v) to each house but in our case everything in house would have varying voltage. But you split after it enters house so it could effect just a few circuits.
when you say exploding, you actually mean they are bursting and broken glass is flying out?
Test the actual voltage at the lamp with a simple multimeter or vaoltage indicator.
Are they ordinary filament bulbs?
Are they protected by glass covers (e.g. to prevent water or thrown stones hitting the glass?
I recommend you buy some Energy Saving Lamps (we call them Compact Fluorescents). They use about one-fifth the electricity to give the same light output. They are very tolerant of voltage fluctuations and do not get hot
But they will not withstand a vandal throwing stones.
Test the actual voltage at the lamp with a simple multimeter or vaoltage indicator.
Are they ordinary filament bulbs?
Are they protected by glass covers (e.g. to prevent water or thrown stones hitting the glass?
I recommend you buy some Energy Saving Lamps (we call them Compact Fluorescents). They use about one-fifth the electricity to give the same light output. They are very tolerant of voltage fluctuations and do not get hot
But they will not withstand a vandal throwing stones.
I will try that and see what the voltage is and try the bulbs that you suggest.
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