Outside Socket - DETAILS OF RUNNING THE 2.5 T&E THROUGH

[Bonce]

I have an outside socket that runs from the consumer on its own dedicated circuit (radial) under the RCD protection. The sockets damaged (cracked) so I have a new one to replace it. Its going in the same position etc and I am confident about connecting it all up but I am concerned about the current run of the 2.5 T&E to the actual socket location from the hole in the external wall

At present (I didn't do it) the cable is simply clipped to the external wall from the hole which is filled with mastic to the socket about half a metre and then goes into the socket in the side through the manufacturer supplied 'gland' not sure if thats the correct terminology - just a rubber grommet to me which has been pierced to let the cable through.

Now my question is, shouldn't the cable be run through the wall in some sort of conduit and then on coming through the wall also run to the socket in some conduit. This would seem safer and more sensible to me and if this is the case I want to do this properly but dont know what sort of thing I should be using. Basically how do I go from the inside then through 90 degrees along the wall to the socket? Assuming this is in some round conduit as I have seen in DIY stores what pieces do I then need to go into the socket. If someone has time to attach links of what I should use for going through the wall, the 90 degree bend on exiting the wall, the conduit from that to the socket and finally into the socket I would very much appreciate it.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Chri5]

Your are correct a TE isn't meant for the outside world of hot / cold / wet / snow and UV light.

Since you are (I assume a DIYer) lets keep away from metal conduit and earth it.

Plastic will protect to a more modest level, better some than none

Where the hole comes through at the external side, use this

A 20mm terminal box, lid and gasket required- the cable comes thro' the base.

Then it your need 20mm plastic conduit, sadels to fix the conduit to the wall (every 800mm or so), glue to fix the conduit to the terminal box.

If the conduit run is long then in line joiners to join together each 3m length.

The final bit will need

20mm female adapter with bush.

The external rated socket will have knockout and glands that can be removed. Remove one and the 20mm FA with bush will couple to the hole.

Do check that the knockouts / gland holes are 20mm- if they are 25mm get conduit and bits to run 25mm conduit.

Finally do glue the ends, otherwise leaky city will occur.

I'd also suggest having the connection between conduit and socket back box from below the socket box. This stops any potential for water to run along the conduit and penetrate the back box, which could happen if side entry.

So straight conduit run, then

and then the box- thus the water can't run vertically up to the box.

 

[Veglen]

Is it possible to re-locate the socket outlet to where the cable exits the wall and just enter the socket from the rear? No cable visible!

V

 

[Bonce]

Firstly thanks very much Chri5 and Veglen.

If you have time just a couple more things Chri5 where I come from inside through the external wall and into the back of the 20mm term box do I just drill a hole in it for the cable and put it through? without any protection for the cable going through the wall or should the hole in the wall have conduit inside and am I trying to get the end of that conduit into the back of the terminal box? If so how do I seal it presumably just mastic it all up?

Veglen. It may be possible to move it I see no reason why it needed to be placed away from the exit hole, although there was an old water tap there (now moved) which may have made it awkward before. But I have the same sort of question as above how do I go into the back of the socket - theres the knock outs as Chri5 mentions but then how do I make it all water tight - the socket has little rubber grommets for putting in the knock outs but I dont see how this is going to stop water getting down the back of the socket and in if I just put the cable straight through it or should I be using a bit of conduit through the wall and in through the knock out? (I dont think I would be able to use one of the female bushes Chri5 shows above on the back). So if it is just conduit through the wall what is then to stop water running down the back of the socket onto the conduit and then into the box (or again presumably a good helping of mastic around conduit where it enters the knock out).

Once again thankyou both for your help.

 

[electronicsuk]

I always use enough sealant/mastic to fill the gap between the wall and whatever I'm fixing to it, same applies to the socket or the conduit end box.

 

[Veglen]

IMO it is not a necessity to use conduit to protect the cable going through the cavity. Some may differ but the cable is double insulated and unless you feel it may be susceptible to impact damage then I’d say you don’t need it.

You could use a suitable mastic type sealer to seal around the cable where it exits the wall to stop water ingress to the brickwork. Remove the knockout on the rear of the box, place a solid rubber grommet in it and pierce it to allow the cable to entr the box. Fix the back box to the wall over the cable exit, after pulling it through the grommet into the box. If the grommet doesn't seal around the cable enough to prevent water ingress then use the sealer to seal around the cable too at the grommet entry point inside the back box.

V

 

[Bonce]

Thanks Veglen really appreciate it.