Oven and Hob Wiring Question

[GuinnessSI]

Hi there,

Before we get into the relms of part P I wont be doing any of this work so, it is just to give me an idea of the access I should leave to route cables and if any work is even required.

I am in the process of refitting a kitchen, the original kitchen hobs and socket used a FCU off an existing socket to a double socket behind the oven. Switchable from above the counter.

When the Gas safe engineer comes to fit the gas pipework to the oven and hobs that I have cut (complying with the regulations for ventelation etc) will he be to put a plug onto the hobs and oven and use the existing double socket behind the oven?

If so what is the require rating of the FCU and the plugs. If I remember somewhere that 3A is the normal and recommended by the oven.


Much Appreciated.

 

[riveralt]

If it just an existing double socket that runs off the ring final circuit through an FCU or kitchen equivalent then the plugs used for the oven and the hob (ignition) will be rated at that suggested by the manufacturer - possibly 3Amp. If there is already an FCU protecting this double gang socket then provided its 2.5mm2 T&E I would use 13Amp - but you could use less.

 

[GuinnessSI]

spot on thanks for the reply.

Im thinking that a 13A in the FCU will suffice for that as well, the cable is 2.5mm flex as and seems very new. It is routed behind a timber partition so cant see it getting hot either.

However both the Hobs and the Oven have no plugs on so I will need to put one on them according the spec if this is acceptable.

 

[riveralt]

spot on thanks for the reply.

Im thinking that a 13A in the FCU will suffice for that as well, the cable is 2.5mm flex as and seems very new. It is routed behind a timber partition so cant see it getting hot either.

However both the Hobs and the Oven have no plugs on so I will need to put one on them according the spec if this is acceptable.

It is a requirement that if plugs are to be to used then the manufacturer should supply them fitted. If they are not fitted then you should follow the manufacturers instructions.

 

[GuinnessSI]

hmm thats not good I will have a look at the instructions again and see what the best course of action is. Possibly fitting a connector box or similar in place of the double socket?

 

[Taylortwocities]

hmm thats not good I will have a look at the instructions again and see what the best course of action is. Possibly fitting a connector box or similar in place of the double socket?

NO

The socket is (I presume) on the ring final. If you take the socket off then you'll need to replace it with a fused device (FCU etc). You're better off leaving it like it is and using a plug with the correct fuse.

 

[GuinnessSI]

the socket is controlled by a FCU, which is spurred of the existing ring main. (I believe from what I can follow of the wiring). Testing has lead me to blieve this as well.

 

[Taylortwocities]

That's fine then. The FCU is a point of isolation.

 

[GuinnessSI]

The instructions for wiring the oven are:

This appliance should be wired into a 13 A double pole switched fused spur outlet, having 3 mm contact separation and the fuse rating reduced to 3 amps. This should be placed in an easily accessible position adjacent to the appliance, preferably above worktop level. An outlet can then be located at the rear of the appliance for connection.

Can I fit a plug with a 3A fuse to this or should I change the double socket to something that I can wire the flex into? Ie an oven outlet or similar not sure which? When I say I, not me the guy fitting it btu I will know what to ask him to do.

Wiring for the hobs instruction:

Before connecting the appliance, make sure that the supply voltage
marked on the rating plate corresponds with your mains supply
voltage.
o Cable type: H05 RRF 3 core x 0.75 mm³ (Type RR-F <HAR>
marked).
o The mains supply cable is supplied with this product

 

[riveralt]

Well you already have the double socket protected by an FCU already rated at 13Amp so I would just connect the cables to two 3Amp rated plugs and stick them in the double socket.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

This appliance should be wired into a 13 A double pole switched fused spur outlet, having 3 mm contact separation and the fuse rating reduced to 3 amps. This should be placed in an easily accessible position adjacent to the appliance, preferably above worktop level. An outlet can then be located at the rear of the appliance for connection.

Before connecting the appliance, make sure that the supply voltage
marked on the rating plate corresponds with your mains supply
voltage.
o Cable type: H05 RRF 3 core x 0.75 mm³ (Type RR-F <HAR>
marked).
o The mains supply cable is supplied with this product

If you are worried that your installer won't be able to cope with those instructions, and that he needs you to have come here first to find out what you should tell him to do then you've chosen an incompetent idiot, and for your own safety and peace of mind you should kick him into touch and get someone who knows what he is doing.

 

[GuinnessSI]

As stated at the beginning there is no question over the competency of the fitter. I am fitting the kitchen myself and I am ensuring that I can fit all the units without the need for them to be removed when the gas appliance fitter comes. Due to regulations or incorrect wiring etc. I.e is the existing ok.

I also obviously want to keep the amount of work the fitter has to do down to a minimum to save cash (at no compromise to safety of course). Thanks for the concern, even if only an answer to an irrelevant question.

"The highest form of ignorance is to reject something you know nothing about."
Dr. Wayne W. Dyer


To those who helped thanks for the above I will put two 3amp plugs on the appliances and leave fit the units tonight.

Everyone else thanks, help is greatly apprecaited. I can now proceed as intended.