Oven & Hob wiring?

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Hi all,

A strange question here.
My wife makes wedding/event cakes and the such for a living at home and said she would sometimes like the oven and hob in a different part of the kitchen. Both are electric btw.

Would it be possible to make a movable unit which houses the oven and hob on top which could be 'plugged in' at 2 different locations? To save buying another oven and hob !!

Told you it was a strange question :LOL:
 
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You can buy cooker/hob combinations, I would not say they were portable but can be moved, you'll be restricted to the output power as I guess it will be best plug top for socket outlet.
 
I would have thought that a sturdy housing on lockable castor wheels would be easy to make, with the connection to the supply via 32A (assuming the cooker circuit is 32A) IEC 60309 plug & sockets.
 
Would have to give due regard to cable grip methods on the moveable unit, and posibly an isolator on it, as well as one to isolate the socket.

Just the same as a portable commercial oven on wheels really isnt it.
 
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Would have to give due regard to cable grip methods on the moveable unit,
Yup, but again not beyond the wit of man.


and posibly an isolator on it,
A big mushroom one? :D

I would have thought that it would be close enough to the socket it's plugged into. If not then there are trip hazards to throw into the mix as well.


as well as one to isolate the socket.
MK K9643


Just the same as a portable commercial oven on wheels really isnt it.
Yup.

And talking of commercial - the EAWR will apply to the kitchen.
 
Oh right so it is actually do-able then. Making the housing is no problem as im a cabinet maker. Those industrial plugs look good and strong.

Would it be best to have 2 seperate cooker circuits or would one be ok. Considering only one of the possible outlets can be used at a time?
 
IMO one circuit supplying both would be fine. All that could happen if you got another 32A appliance is the circuit breaker pops. And besides, the oven/hob wont ever actually draw 32 amps.

I would have an isolator switch for each socket though.
 
There are slightly more appealing ones.

Forget the MK K9643 suggestion (the one at the front here)

MK_k9645.jpg


mainly because of the :eek: :eek: price.

Gewiss do one which is a lot cheaper, and will work just as well. The MK is metalclad, and designed for harsh environments.

PM323301.jpg


You could get away with just a socket outlet and a separate 32A isolation switch, but the socket will still look like the one on that unit, and the advantage of the combined ones is that the switch is interlocked with the socket - you cannot turn it on unless there is a plug in it and you cannot remove the plug without turning it off - it avoids any possibility of trying to insert or remove the plug under load. It also makes the socket safer, as they are not shuttered.
 

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