Oven hood wiring idea - will this work??

[Sleebagz]

I've removed a very old cooker hood that was hard wired above our cooker and want to install a new one.

Problem is, the new hood has a plug attached and I don't want to try hard wiring it.

So my question, is there any way of attaching a 'portable socket' to the cable that supplies power to the hood? Something along the lines of the image below like what you get on a garden extension lead that i could then plug the new hood into?

There's a couple of pictures attached below to help explain.

Oh and one further question, the cable has a black round 'box' on it - can someone tell me what this is?

Untitled

• Sleebagz
• 8 May 2015
• 1

Untitled

• Sleebagz
• 8 May 2015
• 1

Untitled

• Sleebagz
• 8 May 2015
• 1

 

[EFLImpudence]

The round thing is just a junction box - connections.

You could cut the plug off and connect to it.


However, I expect the hood should be protected by a 3A fuse which is in the plug.
If you do not have a Fused Connection Unit on the circuit then cutting off the plug may not be a good idea.

Can you not fit a surface mounted socket somewhere?

 

[Sleebagz]

The round thing is just a junction box - connections.

You could cut the plug off and connect to it.


However, I expect the hood should be protected by a 3A fuse which is in the plug.
If you do not have a Fused Connection Unit on the circuit then cutting off the plug may not be a good idea.

Can you not fit a surface mounted socket somewhere?

There's no room for a surface mounted socket, the wall is tiled and the cable the original hood was plugged in to feeds down loose behind a wall unit, and i'm after a quick fix.

Can the hood not just plug into the extension socket if I add it to the end of the cable?

What is the purpose of the junction box if there is just one cable going in and one going out? Can i remove the junction box whilst I'm at it?

 

[ldoodle]

the cable the original hood was plugged in to feeds down loose behind a wall unit

The junction box... where does this sit? On top of the wall unit?

Is this what the original hood 'plugged' into? If so how? Was the original hard wired into it as I don't see a plug receptacle.

 

[Sleebagz]

the cable the original hood was plugged in to feeds down loose behind a wall unit

The junction box... where does this sit? On top of the wall unit?

Is this what the original hood 'plugged' into? If so how? Was the original hard wired into it as I don't see a plug receptacle.

The junction box is loose on top of the wall units, along with about a metre and a half of cable.

There's a cable runs from an isolation switch on the tiled wall, up the back of the units into the junction box, then the cable comes back down behind the unit and was hard wired into the old hood below.

My idea was to continue in the same vain meaning both the wire from the hood and the wire to the socket could still be hidden behind the units, just without the hard-wired part.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Fit a socket on top of the units.

 

[Sleebagz]

Fit a socket on top of the units.

Can I not just fit one of the things in the image above? I don't need a socket above the units, I presume this would mean drilling a hole in the wall etc, I just need something to stick the oven hood's plug into, I don't mind if it's loose...

 

[sparkwright]

Usually one is reluctant to fit any form of 13 amp socket on either a cable not fed from a socket circuit, or onto an undersized cable fused at around 3 or 5 amp.

The biggest question here firstly has to be: 'Does the cable you want to fit the 13 amp extension lead socket to have an earth wire??'

 

[Sleebagz]

Usually one is reluctant to fit any form of 13 amp socket on either a cable not fed from a socket circuit, or onto an undersized cable fused at around 3 or 5 amp.

The biggest question here firstly has to be: 'Does the cable you want to fit the 13 amp extension lead socket to have an earth wire??'

If the cable has an isolation switch on the worktop that it feeds from would it be classed as fed from a socket?

And to answer your question... when I cut said cable away from the old oven hood there was a live, neutral and earth.

 

[sparkwright]

I don't see any real issue doing what you propose.


I take it the isolation switch is a fused spur? ie a switch with a little drawer on the front containing a fuse?

IF SO, not sure what size fuse is fitted in the fused spur (isolation switch). Bearing in mind we don't know what size that existing flex is, and that theoretically anything could be plugged into your new extension lead socket, it may be best to fit a 3 or 5 amp fuse at the fused spur.

Not that it is likely anyone will be plugging anything else into it.

It would be unusual for that kind of flex to be used all the way back to the fused spur.

Are you sure there's no other hidden joints or sockets anywhere? EDIT - you've said it's behind a cupboard so I assume it's unaccessible.

Would be sensible to check the earth wire is in fact connect to earth, since it appears there's a hidden joint that can't be accessed.

 

[Sleebagz]

I don't see any real issue doing what you propose.


I take it the isolation switch is a fused spur? ie a switch with a little drawer on the front containing a fuse?

IF SO, not sure what size fuse is fitted in the fused spur (isolation switch). Bearing in mind we don't know what size that existing flex is, and that theoretically anything could be plugged into your new extension lead socket, it may be best to fit a 3 or 5 amp fuse at the fused spur.

Not that it is likely anyone will be plugging anything else into it.

It would be unusual for that kind of flex to be used all the way back to the fused spur.

Are you sure there's no other hidden joints or sockets anywhere? EDIT - you've said it's behind a cupboard so I assume it's unaccessible.

Would be sensible to check the earth wire is in fact connect to earth, since it appears there's a hidden joint that can't be accessed.

If i remove the junction box and add the extension socket to the cable that runs off the isolation switch, then plug the oven hood into this extension socket am I good to go? There's a 3amp fuse in the isolation switch, and the plug on the oven hood will have a 3amp fuse in it to, so does that alleviate all 'fuse concerns'?

 

[EFLImpudence]

Yes, but it's not usual to fit Twin and Earth in that sort of socket.

Why not do as I said earlier and fit (screw) a normal socket on top of the units? - not above as you replied, on the top.

 

[Sleebagz]

Yes, but it's not usual to fit Twin and Earth in that sort of socket.

Why not do as I said earlier and fit (screw) a normal socket on top of the units? - not above as you replied, on the top.

Sorry i'm not sure what you mean about twin and earth? Is the portable socket not just the same as a one that screws to the wall, but portable?

 

[EFLImpudence]

Sorry i'm not sure what you mean about twin and earth?

The flat cable on the right in your picture of the junction box.
I presume this is the supply cable.

Is the portable socket not just the same as a one that screws to the wall, but portable?

No. it is meant for round flexible cable like the left side in the picture.

I realise your proposal will not result in the cable moving around but there is no reason not to do it 'normally'.