Oven switch in cupboard want to move it

[Master of None]

My oven is switched from a double socket in a low level kitchen cabinet. It mostly gets switched off on the oven control panel because it's a pain in the A*** to keep bending down and moving pots etc to get to the socket. I now want to rectify this and have identified the wiring layout to produce a diagram to add a switch at high level. My extractor and under cabinet lights are currently a 5A spur off the ring. I realise I cannot spur a spur etc. So I have attached a drawing of my proposal, Hopefully so that you knowledgeable ones will say that it is the way to do it correctly or offer any advice. My washing mc has the same problem so will this solution be ok for that also. Thanks in advance.

One other thing. Is it allowed to use surface mount plastic back boxed sunk into plasterboard walls?

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• Master of None
• 20 Sep 2008
• 2

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PS The MK single sw sockets i have just bought have 2 earth terminals physically connected. Do I use one for the cpc and one for the fly to back box, or just stick em in the same terminal as usuall.

 

[333rocky333]

PS The MK single sw sockets i have just bought have 2 earth terminals physically connected. Do I use one for the cpc and one for the fly to back box, or just stick em in the same terminal as usuall.

Does not matter,as they are solidly linked together, some people do not earth the backbox but I would.

If a ring then I think it is best to keep the two ring earths in the same terminal, ( except for special High integrity circuits), and the flylead in either terminal.

 

[Master of None]

Please help guys, I am about to pull in the extra cable. Does anyone see any problems with this arrangement?. One small change is I now plan to spur the extractor and light off the new single socket instead of the SW FCU because the terminals are a bit more accommodating. All cable is 2.5mm T+E if any one is intrested, exept the 6mm hob supply.
I can't see anything wrong with the arrangement. However one thing that has always bothered me about spurs is that the single 2.5mm cable TO the FCU that is only protected by the 32A mcb in the CU. . But this is the norm is it not?. So if you are adding a FCU should you make it part of the ring rather than spurred off it if posible?

 

[electronicsuk]

The proposed wiring diagram looks fine to me. Not that it would matter a huge amount either way, but I assume the feed to the 5A FCU controlling the extractor + cabinet lights is fed as a spur from the supply side of the 13A FCU next to it, and not from the load side?

Would be a little more happy if the lights and extractor fan were each on their own FCU, as that allows more flexibility and the protection of the lighting with a 3A fuse. That said, if the lights are designed to be wired straight into a standard lighting circuit protected by a 6A MCB/5A fuse then there's no problem there from a safety aspect.

I've not seen anyone sink standard surface mount boxes into a plasterboard wall, it sounds a bit naff to me. If you must do it this way then use a standard metal backbox and attach to a stud in the wall, or, even better, use a dry lining/fastfix box!

 

[Master of None]

Thanks electonicsuk and rocky, that is just what I wanted to hear.
To clarify a couple of things,

1. I would also have preferred separate FCU's for the lights and fan however I have ran out of space for the plates at this bit of the kitchen. And yes the 5A FCU is off the supply side of the 13A FCU. But as I noted in my second post, I will now spur it from the Single socket due to its larger terminals. Guess this is ok?

2. Can't use fastfit boxes because they are right next to each other, But the existing noggin can be utilised for the metal box.

3. My question about the surface mount box is because the low level sockets tend to pull the flimsy cabinet back panel toward the wall so I thought I could use a deep surface mount which would protrude from the wall to the back of the panel. I now realise of course I can just pack the panel off the wall with wood.

Thanks again

 

[333rocky333]

2. Can't use fastfit boxes because they are right next to each other, But the existing noggin can be utilised for the metal box

They do make a dry lining dual box which takes two standard size accessories

 

[electronicsuk]

1. I would also have preferred separate FCU's for the lights and fan however I have ran out of space for the plates at this bit of the kitchen. And yes the 5A FCU is off the supply side of the 13A FCU. But as I noted in my second post, I will now spur it from the Single socket due to its larger terminals. Guess this is ok?

Don't see why not, you can take a spur from any accessory that's on the ring final, so it makes no difference either way.