New 32amp Double Oven

[ScubaCollie]

No, that advice is rubbish.

Hi mate what I don't need to replace the 40amp MCB on the 6mm oven circuit with a 32amp MCB?

He said the regs changed about 8 years ago because there was oven circuits catching fire with the 40amp MCBS installed and therefore they reduce the MCBS to 32amp...?

Shall I leave the MCB as 40amp?

 

[EFLImpudence]

Hi mate what I don't need to replace the 40amp MCB on the 6mm oven circuit with a 32amp MCB?

No.

He said the regs changed about 8 years ago because there was oven circuits catching fire with the 40amp MCBS installed and therefore they reduce the MCBS to 32amp...?

Nonsense.

Shall I leave the MCB as 40amp?

Yes.

Especially as you have bought 6mm² flex, there is no reason to change it.

 

[ScubaCollie]

No.


Nonsense.


Yes.

Especially as you have bought 6mm² flex, there is no reason to change it.

EFLImpudence, you have been a really great help to me mate and I really do appreciate it, thank you so much, wish I could by you a beer or two!

This is what I've done and managed with your help/assistance.

The major clanger I dropped was with sorting out that dodgy termination block in the wall.

I thought it was 6mm cable like the oven, therefore I purchased 6mm Wago connectors today and junction box. However it ended up being 2.5mm, and after isolating the CU, was on the ring and not the kitchen or oven circuit.

I had some spare 2.5mm Wago connectors in the garage therefore used them but they are too small for the junction box slots, but they aren't going to pull out through the black slides after the lid was pressed down, so I used that and put it back in the wall, I'm sure that will be safer and more secure than it was with the termination block.

Anyway some pictures below of my little project this evening and I've tested and have 248 Volts on the meter.

Just want to say a big thank you mate as my Mrs has the Oven arriving tomorrow (haven't been able to cook for a week!) and will be nice once it's all connected up and installed!

 

[terryplumb]

Just a pointer ,the strain reliefs on the junction box should hold/ clamp the outer sheath of the cable ,not the individual conductors.
Failure...7 out of ten ...must try harder

 

[EFLImpudence]

You need to put the grey sheath into the box so that it is held by the little 'teeth'.

Is the oven connector rated for the job? I haven't seen one like that.

 

[ScubaCollie]

You need to put the grey sheath into the box so that it is held by the little 'teeth'.

Is the oven connector rated for the job? I haven't seen one like that.

Hi mate the link to it is here it's 45Amp therefore more than sufficient?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-45a-...te/61074#product_additional_details_container

 

[ScubaCollie]

Also that Wago box is now in the wall! I didn't strip anymore sheathing off of it, and previously it was the same but with a screwdown terminal block, therefore hopefully it's now even safer with the Wago clip connectors instead..... Therefore will it be OK to leave it in the wall without the sheathing being inside the Junction Box?

 

[terryplumb]

You might as well do it properly.

 

[ScubaCollie]

You might as well do it properly.

Hi Terry, I will have to pull the double socket out and hopefully not damage the drywall in the process as the butterfly lugs on the sides aren't easy to get out on that box, what are the dangers of leaving it as it is? As there aren't any exposed wires and it isn't at any risk of being pulled as its inside a wall?

Not meaning to sound ungrateful for the advice but just worried about damaging the wall and also need the cooker in tomorrow night and even though its not done properly is there any real risk of anything happening if its left like that?

 

[terryplumb]

Let me put it this way ,you have gone to the trouble of buying and fitting a maintenance free junction box and appropriate connectors , but have not fitted it correctly. In essence it does not comply with the regulations . The cable sheath is outside the JB ,there is no strain relief ,and the weight of the JB itself may well be hanging on the connector blocks / conductors.
It's simple enough to remove a dry wall box from the plasterboard ,and 15 minutes to trim and refit the cables correctly into the JB.
Just do it ,you know it makes sense.
Incidentally what testing did you do on the circuit ,which I assume is a ring final, after making the connections in the JB ?

 

[ScubaCollie]

Let me put it this way ,you have gone to the trouble of buying and fitting a maintenance free junction box and appropriate connectors , but have not fitted it correctly. In essence it does not comply with the regulations . The cable sheath is outside the JB ,there is no strain relief ,and the weight of the JB itself may well be hanging on the connector blocks / conductors.
It's simple enough to remove a dry wall box from the plasterboard ,and 15 minutes to trim and refit the cables correctly into the JB.
Just do it ,you know it makes sense.
Incidentally what testing did you do on the circuit ,which I assume is a ring final, after making the connections in the JB ?

Hi Terry, out of interest, why doesn't a plastic backbox come with a strain relief for the incoming cables?

The cooker socket I have has a strain relief for the flex coming out at the bottom (has similar to that as on a plug) however the backbox has no strain reliefs for the cable coming in? I've used the top push out therefore the cable has a slight bend in from the top, therefore that probably assists, but you would have thought all back boxes would have strain reliefs for incoming cables as you can't always get to a joist inside a wall to clip/staple, even if it was a simple type of cable tie capable of being tightened up from inside the box once installed...

 

[terryplumb]

Probably because they are accessible , and more importantly the terminals and cable connections are,but junction boxes hidden in walls ,ceiling voids etc are not.

 

[sparkwright]

One thought springs to mind - before re-joining the 2.5mm2 cables with the wagos, did you cut off the copper ends, and re-strip first?

I only ask as the old screw-down connector block will have squashed the copper ends of the wires, and wouldn't be substantial enough to go into the wagos.

That's all .

 

[ScubaCollie]

Hi Sparkwright I cut off the ends as I've done all of the connections again (as per below photos) but thank you for that pointer as I probably wouldn't have thought of that unless I had noticed some visible damage.

I've now got the new cooker in and all working fine!

EFLImpudence/Terryplumb have a look at the connections below, do I now get a 10 out of 10 as it was only a 7 before!!!??? LOL

 

[sparkwright]

Looks good, well done for taking the trouble to re-do it.