Oven Wiring - Help Needed

[Bikermoore]

Hello All!

Sorry I posted this in the wrong place, But hopefully this is now in the correct place.

Background: I am installing a new kitchen and I am trying to install my electric single oven. At the moment I have a 45 amp supply to a Cooker control unit. The oven will use a max of 2.1 kW, and require the following depending on the connection:

13 A socket outlet/spur - Fuse 13 A min.
Cooker control unit - 15 A min. 20 A max

My question is can I connect to the CCU even thought the cooker only needs 13 A min, and there is a 45 A supply to the CCU? Would this burn out the cooker? I would prefer to use the CCU, since there would be no cable coming up from the oven to a 13 A socket.

Thanks in advance

 

[Qedelec]

2100W is approx 9 amps. So you can connect into the cooker connection unit behind the cooker.
To be safe I would add a sigle socket and plug the cooker directly into it, this will afford the cooker protection from the plug top fuse which should be 10amps

 

[JohnD]

The bigger fuse will not "burn out" your cooker - the cooker just takes as much as it needs of what is available.

However:

In the event of a fault, your cooker - which normally takes about 10 Amps (I suppose it is a dual-fuel) - would have to take more than 4 times its usual current before the MCB would trip. The cooker lead and other parts could be overheating very badly by then and possibly catch fire. It is better to have a fuse or MCB which is close to the anticipated max normal operating load, so that in the event of a fault, the fuse blows or the MCB trips quickly.

There are a couple of ways of achieving this:
the MCB can be replaced by a 15A one (easy if it is a Wylex Standard or you are used to electrical work, but can be dangerous if you do not follow proper method)

Or a 13A socket can be fitted at the kitchen end, in place of or connected to the existing Cooker Connection unit which is the big plastic plate in the wall with a slot at the bottom, and the cooker plugged into this socket.

I am undecided over which method would suit you better, perhaps others would like to advise?

Edited: Tsk - out-typed by Qedelec

 

[securespark]

Not that my name is other, but I would make sure any additions to the cooker circuit are done in same size cable.

But ultimately, this is your answer:

13 A socket outlet/spur - Fuse 13 A min.
Cooker control unit - 15 A min. 20 A max

If you connect via a socket or spur, 13A fuse.

If you connect via CCU, 15/20A.

Since 45A> 20A, then you can't attach directly to the CCU.

 

[Bikermoore]

I haven't got MCB on the main fuse board - It's the old fasioned Fuse wire - But I am looking to upgrade it.

How Difficult is it to wire 6mm into a 13 A Switched Socket?

 

[securespark]

Not.

 

[JohnD]

@ secure!

(Reasonably) easy if it is one of the good-quality major brands - MK or Crabtree are the ones you will probably find.

Not easy in some cheap brands.

You will also need a good deep box to bend the cores into place in.

(p.s. it doesn't need to be switched if the outlet is controlled by the big Cooker switch.)

 

[Bikermoore]

I take it that there are different rated CCU's, so if I had a 15/20 A I COULD wire directly into the CCU. But since I have a 45 A CCU I WILL need to wire to a 13 A Socket to protect the Oven in case of a fault.

 

[Bikermoore]

(p.s. it doesn't need to be switched if the outlet is controlled by the big Cooker switch.)

Yeah... I realised that when I posted it. But I couldn't be bothered to edit the post

 

[JohnD]

I take it that there are different rated CCU's, so if I had a 15/20 A I COULD wire directly into the CCU. But since I have a 45 A CCU I WILL need to wire to a 13 A Socket to protect the Oven in case of a fault.

Not quite right... CCUs do not have their own fuse, so they are rated according to the fuse or MCB in the consumer unit/fuseboard.

CCUs are mostly rated at about 45Amp... I don't think there are any 20A ones. We would use a different sort of accessory for that kind of circuit.

As well as the oven, you are also protecting any cables - hence securespark's point about using big cables up to the point where it is fused to 13A or less. A 45A circuit ought really to be fused at 10mm, which is even more difficult to terminate in a socket. But 6mm in free air or clipped direct for a few inches is OK

 

[securespark]

Perhaps I should have made it clear (to my logic it is without clarification...) that you should use a deep box with 6mm2 cable (47mm) and a quality branded soket outlet.

It goes without saying that poor quality or wrongly selected products make installation awkward, to say the least.

 

[JohnD]

sorry I misread your point. I was thinking "easy" and when I saw your "Not" I got the wrong idea.