Ovens again, sorry...

[AlvoSlim]

...I can't find what I need in the previous posts.

I'm planning to replace my existing double oven with two single ovens.
I don't know if I'm going to need re-wiring to cope or what other work I'm going to need to have done.

The incoming box in the garage has a 32amp fuse (RCD?) for the cooker. This emerges at the cooker as a multi-strand t&e cable, 4mm2. There's a switch on the wall nearby of course.

Now I've been told that each of the two ovens I want to buy requires 16amp, and that this means I need a 45amp supply.

Any advice gratefully recieved, ta.

 

[EFLImpudence]

The incoming box in the garage has a 32amp fuse (RCD?) for the cooker. This emerges at the cooker as a multi-strand t&e cable, 4mm2. There's a switch on the wall nearby of course.

Fit a dual outlet connection unit and connect each oven with 4mm² flex - preferably heat proof.
Then no fusing down will be required.

Now I've been told that each of the two ovens I want to buy requires 16amp, and that this means I need a 45amp supply.

That doesn't make sense, does it? Who told you that? 2 x 16 = ....

 

[AlvoSlim]

The incoming box in the garage has a 32amp fuse (RCD?) for the cooker. This emerges at the cooker as a multi-strand t&e cable, 4mm2. There's a switch on the wall nearby of course.

Fit a dual outlet connection unit and connect each oven with 4mm² flex - preferably heat proof.
Then no fusing down will be required.

Now I've been told that each of the two ovens I want to buy requires 16amp, and that this means I need a 45amp supply.

That doesn't make sense, does it? Who told you that? 2 x 16 = ....

So I use: http://www.alertelectrical.com/prod/1022/click-45a-easyfit-dual-appliance-outlet-plate or similar... and I don't need to do owt else?

The 45amp bit came from the retailer where I found the ovens. I didn't understand that myself, but I thought it must be some arcane electricians wizardry...

Thanks for the help.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Yes, that's the part. Nothing to change.

The unit is rated at 45A but that is just the maximum current it can take.
Perhaps that is what was meant.

 

[AlvoSlim]

Could be, maybe I got the wrong idea.

Thanks very much for your help.

 

[ericmark]

I am trying to work out exactly what you have it would seem main incomer to garage is a 32A RBCO (RCD and MCB combined) in which case no point in putting anything bigger than 32A in the garage.

Also seems you have a 4mm cable buried in the wall again unlikely then you can exceed 32A.

So you have a cooker and two ovens running on a 32A supply. Or is it just two ovens? If the latter that's OK.

In the main ovens using more than 13A can be supplied from a 32A supply but you need to check manufacturers paper work. It could stipulate 16A.

I would say 45A for items designed to run on a 16A supply is OTT it would not matter if you had 3 ovens you would need to split the supply no way would you feed something designed to run on 16A with a 45A over current device. However using a 45A isolator at the oven end would be normal so I would guess he was talking about an isolator not a MCB.

I wonder what the ovens are for? My mother used one to melt glass and it could well be ovens of that type do need no more than a 16A MCB so do read what the instructions say.

 

[AlvoSlim]

I am trying to work out exactly what you have it would seem main incomer to garage is a 32A RBCO (RCD and MCB combined) in which case no point in putting anything bigger than 32A in the garage.

Also seems you have a 4mm cable buried in the wall again unlikely then you can exceed 32A.

So you have a cooker and two ovens running on a 32A supply. Or is it just two ovens? If the latter that's OK.

In the main ovens using more than 13A can be supplied from a 32A supply but you need to check manufacturers paper work. It could stipulate 16A.

I would say 45A for items designed to run on a 16A supply is OTT it would not matter if you had 3 ovens you would need to split the supply no way would you feed something designed to run on 16A with a 45A over current device. However using a 45A isolator at the oven end would be normal so I would guess he was talking about an isolator not a MCB.

I wonder what the ovens are for? My mother used one to melt glass and it could well be ovens of that type do need no more than a 16A MCB so do read what the instructions say.

I currently have a double oven, which is going to be scrapped. I'm replacing this with two single ovens. They're just domestic ovens, but I'm told they want 16amp supply.

I assume the switch I've got is 45amp if that's standard, but I'll check.

Thanks for your input Eric.

 

[OwainDIYer]

I currently have a double oven, which is going to be scrapped. I'm replacing this with two single ovens. They're just domestic ovens, but I'm told they want 16amp supply.

The problem is if the manufacturer's instructions state the oven must be protected by a 16A circuit breaker (i.e. 16A max supply, not 16A minimum).

16A circuits are common in Europe where many of these aplpiances originate, but they don't fit neatly into UK 13A sockets or 32A cooker circuits.

 

[AlvoSlim]

I currently have a double oven, which is going to be scrapped. I'm replacing this with two single ovens. They're just domestic ovens, but I'm told they want 16amp supply.

The problem is if the manufacturer's instructions state the oven must be protected by a 16A circuit breaker (i.e. 16A max supply, not 16A minimum).

16A circuits are common in Europe where many of these aplpiances originate, but they don't fit neatly into UK 13A sockets or 32A cooker circuits.

Thanks.

The ovens are German, so it's possible. If I do need 16amp supply - how do I go about that? Unfortunately I can't download the manual for some reason to check.

 

[EFLImpudence]

16A circuits are common on the continent and would have two or even three connected to large appliances.

We do not use them as such in Britain and almost every cooker or oven and hob will be on a 32A circuit.

It is very unlikely that the manufacturer will state a maximum so more likely it is a minimum (because it wouldn't work properly with less) but the manufacturer's instructions must be followed so find the model and the instructions.

Should the ovens come supplied with 13A plugs then it will not be possible to follow the instructions without alteration somewhere.


What I have suggested is electrically safe and acceptable as the mcb is there to protect the cable, not the appliance.

 

[AlvoSlim]

Thanks.

I've found it's 16amp minimum fuse, 3860w. So it seems I need to have the 45a rated connection EFL recommended and all else should be good to go.

Thanks again all.

 

[Astra99]

It seems there are more and more European appliances coming in which are rated at 16A. As I see it, without providing a dedicated 16A circuit from the CU, the cheapest solution might be a 2-way dis board downstream of the cooker isolator containing a 20 or 32A breaker for the hob and a 16A breaker for the oven, each terminating (on the protected side) in a connection plate rated appropriately for the breaker to which it is connected. Agreed, it's a PITA, but with ingenuity it should be possible to locate everything behind the existing units, cutting out backs (of units) for access as necessary.

 

[EFLImpudence]

That's not necessary as has been confirmed it is 16A minimum.

Therefore 32A is ok (with correct cable).