Sorry, another Induction Hob and Oven question

[Silkysean]

Hi there, sorry to open a new thread but I've searched through the forums and can't find a definitive answer to my problem. I'm in the process of replacing my current oven and hob.

At the moment I have a Gas Hob (with 13A plug for the ignition) and oven connected with a 13A plug, both plugged into a 2 gang switched socket behind the oven.

This socket is connected with 6mm cable (i think) to a 45amp cooker switch above the counter. This circuit is then protected by a 32AMP MCB at the consumer unit, again with 6mm cable.

The new oven is a Beko OIM25503X, rated at 3.1kW and says it needs a min of 16AMP fuse.

The new hob is a Beko HII64403T Induction rated at 7.2kW requiring a 32amp fuse

My question is, if I remove the current socket and fit a Dual Appliance Outlet plate, can I connect both appliances to this 32AMP circuit?

 

[Chri5]

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/6.2.1.htm

10A plus 30% plus 5 amp if there's a socket in the cooker switch.

Now what I can't remember is if you are 'allowed' to work the above as the sum of both hob and oven.

If you can the 10 amp + 30% of (7200w + 3100w / 230v) will be well inside the 32 amp fuse.

 

[Silkysean]

Cool. So it doesn't matter that the 16A oven is on the 32A circuit?

 

[ericmark]

In the main yes you can connect both to a double outlet plate but as you rightly point out the manufacturer can stipulate a maximum size but one needs to read what the manufacturer says.

As to other direction overload and tripping unlikely it will trip but worst case would be over heating. Likely both hob and oven have cooling fans so you should never switch off the supply as that will stop the cooling fan from working so if it does start tripping then you need to alter things but that is unlikely.

My oven and hob stand alone says use 32A supply but with everything going is around 60A clearly there may be some electronic system to stop one switching them all on together but I don't think so.

 

[Silkysean]

Thank you for your replies. Another question. The oven needs a cable to connect it to the Dual Appliance Outlet Plate. It specifies in the instructions that a H05VV-FG 3 x 1.5mm will do. Should I do as it says or should I get a larger size? I'm thinking 2.5mm or even going up to 4mm T&E cable if it'll fit in the connectors.

 

[ericmark]

If it says you can use 1.5mm sq cable then likely it expects it to be protected by a 16A device. There is a problem in that Europe uses 16A radials everywhere where we use 32A rings with 13A not 16A sockets.

Many European ovens are therefore over the 3kW British limit so either get a British oven i.e. 3kW or less or run a supply special for oven.

Looked at the instructions it says use a 16A fuse.

 

[Silkysean]

Well I certainly don't want to run a new supply or get a new oven. Do 16amp fused spurs exist, or at least 20amp? Failing that, I've read elsewhere that as the oven has a fixed rating, it should never go over 16amp so there's no risk of it overloading? Thus doesn't need a fuse? Some say 16amp ovens can connect to 32amp mcb's others say not. Confused.com

 

[ericmark]

There is no 100% answer one looks at the oven and one does a risk assessment. Clearly at 50 miles away I can't do that risk assessment.

13A is max UK FCU. Next step is a mini consumer unit. Likely not required but deciding what is and what is not required means looking at the job.

Since to DIY means LABC fees which are likely higher than what you will pay a scheme member electrician to do the job why worry. Let him do that it's what he's paid to do.