Paint not sticking

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11 Oct 2009
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Pembrokeshire
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I started painting our utility room yesterday and fear I may have wasted a weekend on it. The room has had a new plasterboard ceiling which was skimmed and I've painted it with no problems. The walls are another matter. They are a fairly stubborn shade of orange and I had assumed our builder had sanded the walls last week as he told me the walls were now ready for painting. So my plan was to put a couple of coats of white on first before using a colour. I think the orange paint may have been a vinyl or something with a bit of a sheen as my white matt emulsion didn't stick. I left it overnight and gave it another try today but the orange is coming through as clear as day and the white paint just isn't covering it. It seems that the builder and I may have had crossed wires over what makes a wall ready, but I now realise I shall have to start again. This is my question - after leaving it to dry properly should I sand the walls or could I get away with using sugar soap and avoid the mess and heartache of sanding? Sorry this is a bit long-winded!
 
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What kind of white paint were you using to paint over the orange?
 
It can take more than two coats of white to conceal a strong colour like orange. I had to put four coats of Natural Calico over turquoise, once. Plus, Wickes Trade isn't the greatest in terms of opacity. Try Leyland Trade - a bit more expensive but thicker and more effective for your job.

It is unusual for matt emulsion not to adhere to silk/soft sheen emulsion - are you sure that was what the orange surface was?
 
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I'm not entirely sure what type of paint the orange is to be honest, but it was slightly shiny. I don't know if I ought to just persist (possibly setting myself up for a fall later) or start again!
 
It might be simpler to line the walls, then paint the lining paper. At least that would get rid of the orange and provide a decent surface on which to paint - and it would definitely adhere!

If you don't want to do that, you will just have to keep going with the white emulsion for as many coats as it needs. It might make a difference if you give it a good rub down before you paint any more on, to provide a better key.

I'd line it!
 
Its a Wickes trade paint, matt emulsion.

The shades of both orange and red are on the colour spectrum defined as the the most difficult to obliterate, Wickes paints offer very poor covering power yet you state that the paint is not sticking.

So my question is has the paint cured so it is able to accept further coats or is your problem more to do with masking/hiding the previous paint system.

Dec
 
The actual colour isn't really the issue, its more a case of the paint not adhering if you see what I mean. Sorry, I haven't made myself very clear. I fully expected to have to put 3 or even 4 coats on to bring the walls up to being white. I attempted to put a second coat onto my first coat of white but when the paint was still wet the orange seemed to be reappearing. I could try a third coat, but I wonder if I'm wasting my time in trying to cover what doesn't seem to want to be covered! I've got some other white matt emulsion kicking around (not sure what make) so I might try that. Perhaps I'll try sugar soap first. I've never used lining paper before and I'm trying to avoid sanding the walls too!
 
Dont bother with sugar soap.

It could be a number of things. Is it an outside wall or is the wall cold?, this would ****** drying and affect adhesion. Silk needs a good hard rub down before going over with matt. Wickes paint has extremely poor obliteration, try something like johnstones covaplus or any trade white with good coverage and hiding or one of the zinsser primers
 
Well I think my latest trick has worked - no doubt some folks might be horrified, but this evening I put a coat of Dulux exterior paint over the pesky orange and it's stuck! Tomorrow then I should be able to apply my topcoat and the job's a good 'un. Well I'm happy anyway!

Thank you all for the comments and lesson learned - a bit more prep in future!
 
Well I think my latest trick has worked - no doubt some folks might be horrified, but this evening I put a coat of Dulux exterior paint over the pesky orange and it's stuck! Tomorrow then I should be able to apply my topcoat and the job's a good 'un. Well I'm happy anyway!

Thank you all for the comments and lesson learned - a bit more prep in future!

Not horrified at all. Whatever works! As long as the exterior paint isn't the gritty, peblesdashy sort. That might look a bit odd in your sitting room. :eek: No, smooth masonry paint is good stuff - it was the only paint which didn't flake off when I needed to paint the back of a fire recess!
 
You should take the advice offered by dcdec and get yourself a trade quality emulsion, they will save you a lot of work, and work out a lot cheaper in the long run.

Dec
 
You should take the advice offered by dcdec and get yourself a trade quality emulsion, they will save you a lot of work, and work out a lot cheaper in the long run.

Dec

I agree with that, too,although it sounds as though OP already had the exterior paint. OP, for the top coats, try Leyland Brilliant White Contract - about £25 for 10 litres. Or Gliddens - that has good opacity, too.

Ditch the Wickes stuff, you'll be there forever.
 
Well I think my latest trick has worked - no doubt some folks might be horrified, but this evening I put a coat of Dulux exterior paint over the pesky orange and it's stuck! Tomorrow then I should be able to apply my topcoat and the job's a good 'un. Well I'm happy anyway!

Thank you all for the comments and lesson learned - a bit more prep in future!

Not horrified at all. Whatever works! As long as the exterior paint isn't the gritty, peblesdashy sort. That might look a bit odd in your sitting room. :eek: No, smooth masonry paint is good stuff - it was the only paint which didn't flake off when I needed to paint the back of a fire recess!

Well I certainly hope that the op has not applied a textured masonry paint on a interior application, that would I suppose look somewhat odd and could often resemble the days of both polyripple, and polytex, both of which were disgusting products.

Yet you see there is one fly in the buttermilk when it comes to applying any masonry paint system indoors!!! It is both designed and formulated to stave off uv and protect the substrate from the outside in, and not the inside out. One thing it is not borne to do is stave off heat and movement regarding an interior app. Many get away with it, yet many don't, and let us also not forget those nasty things of which it contains in order to both protect and battle against fungal growth.

Dec
 
Yet you see there is one fly in the buttermilk when it comes to applying any masonry paint system indoors!!! It is both designed and formulated to stave off uv and protect the substrate from the outside in, and not the inside out. One thing it is not borne to do is stave off heat and movement regarding an interior app. Many get away with it, yet many don't, and let us also not forget those nasty things of which it contains in order to both protect and battle against fungal growth.

Dec

Yes, life is a constant battle against fungal growth, isn't it. Especially in teenagers' bedrooms.

However, it's been on for about six years and it hasn't fallen off yet. A retired decorator of 40+ years' experience suggested I use it, and it proved good advice.
 

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