Painting plasterboard

[[Slip]]

Hi,

i'm going to be soundproofing one wall of my bedroom in the near future.

I have the soundproofing material and the adhesive to apply it to the wall.
I have been told that after the soundproofing I should apply two layers of plasterboard to the top, then it should be unnoticaeble (once coving and skirting etc is re applied)

My question is, what sort of plasterboard should I be using?
Is it possible to get plasterboard that I can just paint immediately after or do all types absolutely need skimming?

I realise that I will need to prepare the board in some way, be it filling the gaps between boards and taping them but skimming is out of my depth.

Any recommendations would be helpful. I thought I would have to use lining paper on the board once its up then paint on top of that.

Will that provide a decent enough finish?

Thanks in advance,

Matt

 

[TexMex]

When you say "sound proofing" you realise that the method you're describing is not going to be very effective. Especially as you are only going to do one wall.

What is the soundproofing material you have got?. The type of soundproofing material that is "adhered" to the wall is generally to reduce reflective sound (ie echos within the room).

Beleive it or not, this can actually increase the level of transmitted sound (energy getting out of the room). The material absorbs the sound energy rather than reflect it, and in so doing, actually passes more of this energy onto the wall that it's adhered to.

Reduction of transmitted sound (ie the sound getting through the wall to the outside world) is a bit more involved. (as you have specified, an extra layer of plasterboard will help but not much)

If you are planning to use the soundproofing material to improve the acoustics of the room then this should be on the inside.

If you let us know what you want to acheive with your efforts of soundproofing and also give details of the structure of your room (dimentions, wall construction, floor type etc..) we shall be able to advise further.

Sorry, don't mean to shoot you down, but it looks like you're running headlong into dissapointment.

 

[[Slip]]

Hi,

Thanks for the reply.

The noise I'm trying to eliminate is next door neighbours TV on late on at night.
I'm a bit of a fussy sleeper so any noise is too much

The noise is only transmitted through the party wall and some through the floorboards (no carpets at the moment.

I'm only trying to eliminate extremly muffled noise from next door i.e. the TV
There's no bass noise.

now.. those plasterboards.....

 

[TexMex]

Ah, I see, and here I was thinking you were some kind of aspiring drummer expecting a bit of foam rubber to keep the neighbours happy.

This shows you how to finish it off. Not bad considering the source.

Just a few more tips.

You should ensure that all of the edges are completely seeled. I would suggest that you go all around the edge (ceiling, floor, and adjacent walls)of each layer of boarding with silicone before putting up the next layer of boards. Sound will find the tiniest gap.

The top layer of boards should have the joints staggered relative to those below.

You may find it easier to do your jointing and painting before you replace the skirting board. Come to think of it, if the skirting needs painting do that before you put it on. (saves masking tape).

 

[[Slip]]

Hi TexMex,

Thanks for that!

I've got the sealant on standby and have checked the attic roof space for gaps etc. Will be sealing every hole in sight

The skirting and coving will have to come off which is gonna be a pain cos I'll have to refit it a few inches in front of where it currently sits.

Any tips on that?

 

[masona]

Depends how far out the new wall is, you may get away with not removing the coving and put a new one in front of it.

If you do search here on soundproofing there's loads of information.

 

[AdamW]

If you decide to tape and joint the plasterboards, have a close look at the boards before you buy them. I have found some brands of tapered edge plasterboard to have s*d-all taper on them (Knauf boards, sold at Wickes being one example). The more pronounced the taper, the easier your job will be.

I have noticed the lafarge plasterboards have a decent taper on them.