Painting Wallrock lining paper

[5oysterman2]

Now finished papering hall, stairs & landing, now got some more questions!!!!

1. Probably be using Dulux emulsion, do i need to dilute the first coat or not.

2. I'll be using frogtape or similar on skirting/architrave etc, which one is better?

3. Seen lot's of YouTube videos where they caulk the edge of tape & then paint it, is this a good thing? If a good idea, do you have to wait until caulk is set & then paint?

 

[aveatry]

I have used it and also filled to joins and sanded but it will need about 5 coats before the filler is completely covered so it does not flash through. You dont need 5 coats over everything - just the join area but its areal problem painting thin when its hot like this as it drys before you can eoll the next bit and any overlap shows.
I would thin it down because of that.
To stop filler flashing through I have actually used paint as the filler, half dry and gone a bit thicker.
Either way the result looks like a perfect new skim with no visible joins

 

[opps]

There is no need to thin the first coat.

If you need to caulk, do so after the first coat of emulsion has been applied. If not the caulk may soak into the paper too quickly and ripple/pill at the edges before you smooth it.

If you need to fill any seams, I would recommend doing so after the first coat of emulsion. Again, because the filler may dry too quickly. My go to are Red Devil OneTime or Toupret RedLite. Both are light weight fillers. They are both very soft and a dream to sand. I would go for 180 grit (silicone carbide paper). It would be advisable to use a cork sanding block so that you don't dig into the filler. I would also add that, unlike powder based filler, the dust does not cling to everything.

Neither filler is prone to "flashing" but very dark emulsions might need more than two coats of emulsion you can hit the filler with rad roller
before applying the final coat.

Frog tape is good but stupidly expensive, there are far cheaper alternatives. If you are buying from a DIY shed, you won't be presented with an equally good but substantially cheaper version.

If you are using the tape to protect skirtings and architraves (as you cut in), you will only need 25mm tape. I am not a fan of using tape but I understand why people use them.

 

[5oysterman2]

I have used it and also filled to joins and sanded but it will need about 5 coats before the filler is completely covered so it does not flash through. You dont need 5 coats over everything - just the join area but its areal problem painting thin when its hot like this as it drys before you can eoll the next bit and any overlap shows.
I would thin it down because of that.
To stop filler flashing through I have actually used paint as the filler, half dry and gone a bit thicker.
Either way the result looks like a perfect new skim with no visible joins

Cheers aveatry

 

[5oysterman2]

There is no need to thin the first coat.

If you need to caulk, do so after the first coat of emulsion has been applied. If not the caulk may soak into the paper too quickly and ripple/pill at the edges before you smooth it.

If you need to fill any seams, I would recommend doing so after the first coat of emulsion. Again, because the filler may dry too quickly. My go to are Red Devil OneTime or Toupret RedLite. Both are light weight fillers. They are both very soft and a dream to sand. I would go for 180 grit (silicone carbide paper). It would be advisable to use a cork sanding block so that you don't dig into the filler. I would also add that, unlike powder based filler, the dust does not cling to everything.

Neither filler is prone to "flashing" but very dark emulsions might need more than two coats of emulsion you can hit the filler with rad roller
before applying the final coat.

Frog tape is good but stupidly expensive, there are far cheaper alternatives. If you are buying from a DIY shed, you won't be presented with an equally good but substantially cheaper version.

If you are using the tape to protect skirtings and architraves (as you cut in), you will only need 25mm tape. I am not a fan of using tape but I understand why people use them.

Already got some Red Devil one time.

Is it recommended to replace tape after first coat or leave it on for both?

Many thanks opps

 

[opps]

Already got some Red Devil one time.

Is it recommended to replace tape after first coat or leave it on for both?

Many thanks opps

On the occasions that I use tape, I remove it as soon as the paint starts to set. I have found that if you apply a second coat and wait too long it can rip the edge of the new paint as you remove it.

@Wayners is also a decorator. I believe he occasionally sprays skirtings etc. My spraying is exclusively free standing units (no tape required). He might be able to offer more definitive advice apropos tape.

 

[Wayners]

Masq Purple (Ciret) is a premium, low-tack masking.
I love the stuff and a popular tape.
Try it. You will love it.
Re frog green.
It's high tack and only good for carpet or hard surfaces. I don't use it.
I like frog yellow though. Frog tape is the only one with polymer dust on tape edge which is why it's in a plastic box. Yellow is lower tack.
You can lookup which tapes are low on medium tack and pick what you want.
Masq purple is perfect though for most jobs.
I pull tape on second coat when paint is wet. I leave on until second coat.
No need to caulk masking edge unless you get a problem. It's just something to try getting over a problem Vs doing all the time.