PART 2 TOILET FLOAT VALVE:

[PullerGas]

Thanks again for all your help - makes sense. Someone suggested liquid PTFE which I'd have to progressively apply as I wound the FI onto the valve tail and gradually gained access to more of the thread, though I've no experience of using it. Any thoughts on that hard plastic washer? - seems unusual to me. And still curious about the lack of long-tail Part 2 valves - Part 2 seems to be the norm now so they must sell enough year on year. Any "surplus" thread could normally be contained within the cistern or water tank.

Regards.

Certainly this stuff is great for thread connections;
http://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-ptfe-liquid-50g/5321j

Of course full thread penitration is always best & for a DIYer I would be fearful you'll make an arze of the joint & need to use heat to get it apart again. Heat near that lead wiped joint could be a nightmare for you.

 

[RONCHAM]

Yes, that's the stuff that was suggested - although it says it's "easy to disassemble with hand tools" but maybe they mean in Mike Tyson's hand?! So I think I'll take your good advice.
I've got a down-to-earth old school plumber a few doors away. He freed up my stopcock by manipulation for a small fee - I was extremely reluctant to touch that too because it was very adjacent to a lead wiped joint. But I daren't trouble him again because I think he's into bigger jobs - the brand new Range Rover is a clue!

 

[Nige F]

Just found a Long tailed ballvalve on eBay - never seen such a long one - If you buy that you can swap the tail with your Part 2 body As to the hard plastic washer and the Part 1's -I don't know I would make a hemp grommet instead of the plastic washer - but you're better off sourcing a rubber washer.

 

[RONCHAM]

That's interesting, have you got a link to it because I can't find one?? I've certainly seen long tail Part 1 ball valves on eBay (apparently for cattle drinkers). The hard plastic washer is on the Part 2 valve I bought although that part is essentially the same in a Part 1. I don't think it's usually the source of a leak but I still expected a fibre or rubber washer. Out of curiosity I emailed the company (begins with P) - they've been around for years so you'd think they have it sussed by now. I'm awaiting their reply. I don't think a hemp grommet is appropriate as it's flat metal to flat metal contact. I think I'll see if it wants to come undone on my existing valve and swap with the new one.
Thanks again.

 

[Nige F]

That's the one , with the tail - a part 1

 

[polesapart]

My toilet cistern is mains fed but takes several minutes to refill

Just open up the existing valve and remove the bit of dirt blocking the orifice in the white insert.

 

[RONCHAM]

Thanks Nige F, I'd seen that Part 1 valve but I really wanted a Part2!
Thanks polesapart - you're probably right. But the existing float valve is so old, a replacement wouldn't have gone amiss. Although, with hindsight, I could've probably revived the existing valve with a £1.50 repair kit! As you know it's only really got two parts that wear - the plastic orifice and the rubber diaphragm. What's really deterred me for the time being is the cranky tap connector. If it had behaved like any normal connector the job would've been a doddle. I'm so relieved to have put it back without a leak that I'm leaving it be for a while! I still don't know why companies don't make the tails a little longer, any surplus could stay within the cistern. Also I'm not sure if these "high tech" plastic valves would present a similar problem or they're a bit more universal.
Thanks again to everyone for the advice.

 

[dreadnoughtheating]

My local (Norwich) BuildBase (Grafton Group) stocks the extra-long-tailed part 1 & 2 Float valves. I always have one of each on board as stock.

It may be that your local branch also keeps them, this may be easier than waiting for Ebay to deliver.

 

[FiremanT]

I haven't read everything, but why did you not just replace from the big nut onwards, leaving the old tail in place?

EDIT:

Hmm. I unexpectedly changed a Pt1 to another Pt1 yesterday. The big nuts appeared to be different sizes, certainly the flats were wider on the new one. I can't recall seeing that before. It was an easy swap, though, so I just changed it all. There was no fibre washer,just PTFE. Personally, I'm not especially happy with that, though, on mains.

 

[RONCHAM]

Thanks for that. I've got a couple of BuildBase outlets within a few miles (hadn't heard of them before) although I couldn't find that item on their website.

Thanks Fireman T. With hindsight, I think you're right and it's probably what I'll do. But initially I didn't realise this "simple" job would be so problematic. I also didn't realise that Part 1 and Part 2 valves are almost identical. Plus I thought even undoing the big nut on the ancient old valve might not be the "simple" job you'd imagine. But I should have gone for it whilst the old valve was out - it's got a long plastic outlet on top (unlike the current short one), within the cistern, that makes it a little awkward to grip the valve body and undo the big nut. Now that I'm reasonably confident the tap connector fitting can be remade with ptfe string (instead of a fibre washer) I'll attempt the job again soon.

 

[dilalio]

I've lost the will to ever fix another bog!

 

[RONCHAM]

If you do it for a living, it beats going down the mines - and the pay is a lot better!

 

[dilalio]

Do you go down the mines?

 

[RONCHAM]

My dad did - and that's as close as I ever wanted to get.

 

[dilalio]

Try going down a sewer.