Patio Door Installation

[RichDarbey]

Hi, I am replacing an existing window with a patio door. The width is the same so the lintel thats in place will remain and all I will do is remove the brickwork below existing window to fit the door.

The problem I have is that the doors are 2100 in height and if I install them with the top meeting the lintel then this will create a high threshold.

Therefore I want to install door at a lower height and this will leave a gap of approx 100mm between new door frame and existing lintel. I dont really want to touch the existing lintel so what options do I have to fill this void?

I have attached a picture to show the lintal in place.

Thanks

Untitled

• RichDarbey
• 4 Oct 2011
• 1

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Cavity wall or solid? Outer skin rendered block or fairface brick?

 

[RichDarbey]

Its a cavity wall and has a rendered block outside skin

 

[^woody^]

Fit a suitable sized timber between the frame and lintel, and then cap it front and back with some uPVC bullnosed cover pieces

 

[RichDarbey]

Thanks for the reply. The only issue I have with that idea is that the doors that I am installing are oak therefore this solution may not be appropriate. The outside of the property is also pebble dash rendering so not sure if that also makes a difference Do you or anyone else have any alternatives?

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Fill the gap with a timber frame/plywood and attach some eml inside and out, render the outside and plaster the inside.

 

[^woody^]

If you render it or such like it is guaranteed to crack at the lintel junction unless you take the lath way past the opening - and then you have an awful patch of different render

You just need to follow the principle as I mentioned and use an oak cover piece to match the frame instead.

Its easier and better to match a frame rather than match old render or masonry

 

[RichDarbey]

Thanks for all the advice. If I use the bullnose technique do you know where I can purchase an oak piece. I assume the bullnose end faces down? What do I do at the render join, just use Sealant? Could I use just a normal piece if oak wood or does it have to be bullnose?

If I render is there no way to stop the cracking?

 

[^woody^]

The frame should be set back so that it does not sit flush with the render, and there should be a "bellcast" formed in the render above the opening to throw water which runs down the wall off in any case

So you seal the frame under the lintel

Good merchants should be able to supply an oak strip, or perhaps another HW timber to be stained. In not sure if a woodgrain oak uPVC strip will match your frame. It might

The bullnose is optional and is just detail. You can have it square, chamfered or whatever you like. But, yes this edge would face down and the other tree sides which butt up to the reveals and head would be square

If you just solely render the infill piece then it will crack due to differentiated movement of the materials. This may be hairline and will then let water in and behind the render to rot the timber and blow the render. So its always a bad thing to do, unless you can use mesh to go way past the joint