Peeling paint section on stud wall

[Notadecor8ter]

I've got a bit of upstairs external wall stud side thats peeling.

Is this potentially down to someone on the external wall?

PS not cracks cobwebs!

 

[Wayners]

Could be filler at that bit and when painted was touched up before paint was dry which caused it to pull off a bit and bubble.

Could be a dot and dab blob of adhesive at that spot so a cold spot although no mould shows.

When painted the paint had marks in it so was sanded too hard causing paint to get thin and lost adhesion. When the damp from fresh paint is applied it causes paint to bubble, but if left would normally pull back and look fine however, over time can fall aways as not stuck well.

Could be an area where a dirty hand was placed causing paint to not stick.

Could be damp salts in plaster or a wet dot and dab pushing off paint as not fully dry.

So many reasons.
Sand back to good.
Fill and prime.
Paint.

Seen what happens

 

[ree]

OP,
Why the stud wall - is it a timber framed house or is there some other reason for building the stud wall?
Is the outside skin an exposed brick wall or a rendered wall or something else?

 

[Notadecor8ter]

Apologies I meant Dot & Dabbed!

Thank you @Wayners lot of good P&D tips there, I did think it just needed to get put back to good, and suspected it might be a blob of D&B underneath causing the area aggro.

When it's next decorated I'll review some options from Bin maybe to prime/seal it?

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

Try a steamer if you want to lift loose paint. Don't overdo it on plasterboard though.

A tin of Bin stuff worked well for me over some filler that was a bit weird to paint. But any other primer is probably OK too.

 

[opps]

Try a steamer if you want to lift loose paint. Don't overdo it on plasterboard though.

A tin of Bin stuff worked well for me over some filler that was a bit weird to paint. But any other primer is probably OK too.

As you seem to be hinting, a steamer can crack the plaster skim on plasterboard.

Personally, I would sand the paint. If there is some kind of contamination, hopefully sanding it will remove the contamination.

That said I seldom work in houses with dot and dab, so I don't have much experience of errant dabs causing issues.

 

[Wayners]

I just sand back to good with 120 grade.
Fill over.
320 grade light sand.
Prime with emulsion and let that dry well.
Paint.

I don't think you need to splash out on BIN ect.
If you have problems with a cold spot or damp then special primers won't work.

See how it goes

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

Yeah, I've never had to deal with dot & dab walls, I've always bought nice solid older houses.

Someone had painted our shower room with PVA then painted. No idea why, guess they thought it would waterproof it. A steamer got it all off really neatly. But yes, this was proper plaster on block.

 

[noseall]

Yeah, I've never had to deal with dot & dab walls, I've always bought nice solid older houses.

D&D walls are inherently stronger than direct wet plastered walls due to the sheathing effect of the plasterboard, especially on blockwork.

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

I know what you mean, but I hate the stuff. It dents very easily, OK for ceilings that nobody will ever touch but can be a problem when people lean on it, furniture gets bumped into it etc. Plus it's a nightmare for any modifications, e.g. cabling, pipes etc.

I like walls that go thud when you slap them rather than sounding like a cardboard box.

But it seems that proper plastering has pretty much vanished from newbuilds now. Which I'm sure is more about cost than quality.