Pipe Bending and minimum fall on a 4inch toilet waste pipe

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Hello Folks
Can someone tell me the main differences between a spring to bend pipes & a pipe bender? these are both in relation to 15mm & 22mm copper. Is one more appropriate for than the other for different jobs?

Also does anyone no the minimum fall on a 100mm toilet waste pipe from toilet outlet to stack

thanks in advance
 
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A bender is much easier, neater and better than a spring.

1-40
 
Hello thanks for the replie
Could you recommend a decent pipe bender?
 
Hilmor would be my first choice, as I like the shape of the handle, otherwise Record or Rothenburg.

Do a google and see what offers you can find.
 
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Pipe benders give constant neat bends and look neat and professional also 22mm with a spring can be hard work, but the spring has the advantage that it can do odd radius and angle bends. It can even be put into a pipe In-situ to make an adjustment.

Springs cannot be inserted into cuts made with a pipe cutter you need to use the factory end or cut with a hacksaw.

You can also offer it up to the job repeatedly and keep playing with it, while once you remove a pipe from the former you have to be very careful about replacing it in the bender again to avoid kinking.

Buy a bender and get a spring too, it's cheap and will get you out of trouble at sometime for certain, oh and it won't bite your fingers like a bender. ;)
 
If you want to make quality bends you need an A frame.
 
More reason then to use the A frame.
Not many of those hand lever benders can bend tube without flattening.

My Hilmor A frame can leave 15mm to within 0.5mm of tolerance right round the curve when bent at 90 degrees. So the finished form you have is very neat and pleasing to the eye.
You'll never achieve that accuracy with those other heaps of junk.
 
More reason then to use the A frame.
Not many of those hand lever benders can bend tube without flattening.

My Hilmor A frame can leave 15mm to within 0.5mm of tolerance right round the curve when bent at 90 degrees. So the finished form you have is very neat and pleasing to the eye.
You'll never achieve that accuracy with those other heaps of junk.
He's only doing it for a bit of DIY pipework, not for a job. A pipe bender is more than sufficient for this volume of work.
 
More reason then to use the A frame.
Not many of those hand lever benders can bend tube without flattening.

My Hilmor A frame can leave 15mm to within 0.5mm of tolerance right round the curve when bent at 90 degrees. So the finished form you have is very neat and pleasing to the eye.
You'll never achieve that accuracy with those other heaps of junk.

Well, I also have both a Hilmor & a Hilmor A frame, I don't find any difference in the bend, in fact there's significantly more farting around with the A frame. So a small hand bender is always first choice or my dog's dangler cordless bender.

I find the old boys need to use the A frame for 22mm though, as they couldn't pull skill off a custard.

Me, I'd only use an A frame for 28-42mm & a ratchet bender for 54mm.

But for a DIYer, a cheap hand bender I'm sure will fit the bill.
 
More reason then to use the A frame.
Not many of those hand lever benders can bend tube without flattening.

My Hilmor A frame can leave 15mm to within 0.5mm of tolerance right round the curve when bent at 90 degrees. So the finished form you have is very neat and pleasing to the eye.
You'll never achieve that accuracy with those other heaps of junk.

Well, I also have both a Hilmor & a Hilmor A frame, I don't find any difference in the bend, in fact there's significantly more farting around with the A frame. So a small hand bender is always first choice or my dog's dangler cordless bender.

I find the old boys need to use the A frame for 22mm though, as they couldn't pull skill off a custard.

Me, I'd only use an A frame for 28-42mm & a ratchet bender for 54mm.

But for a DIYer, a cheap hand bender I'm sure will fit the bill.

If you don't do a lot of bending then the hand bender does the job.
But when you need accuracy and speed combined then the A frame/s is the only choice.
About three A frames lined up so no former changing.
And a forklift holding one down to secure it from lifting and you'll be plenty fast.
That's how its done. And of course the big ratchet bender on stand by.
Being a domesticated one man show band with a van full of play toys you might never see a performance like that. :LOL:
 
More reason then to use the A frame.
Not many of those hand lever benders can bend tube without flattening.

My Hilmor A frame can leave 15mm to within 0.5mm of tolerance right round the curve when bent at 90 degrees. So the finished form you have is very neat and pleasing to the eye.
You'll never achieve that accuracy with those other heaps of junk.

Well, I also have both a Hilmor & a Hilmor A frame, I don't find any difference in the bend, in fact there's significantly more farting around with the A frame. So a small hand bender is always first choice or my dog's dangler cordless bender.

I find the old boys need to use the A frame for 22mm though, as they couldn't pull skill off a custard.

Me, I'd only use an A frame for 28-42mm & a ratchet bender for 54mm.

But for a DIYer, a cheap hand bender I'm sure will fit the bill.

If you don't do a lot of bending then the hand bender does the job.
But when you need accuracy and speed combined then the A frame/s is the only choice.
About three A frames lined up so no former changing.
And a forklift holding one down to secure it from lifting and you'll be plenty fast.
That's how its done. And of course the big ratchet bender on stand by.
Being a domesticated one man show band with a van full of play toys you might never see a performance like that. :LOL:

Aye, you're going to be a popular figure onsite with your 3 A frames & forklift to bend a bit of 15mm!! What, do have a van or a 40foot articulated lorry??!!
I'm amazed how you get it all into the bathroom your working on?
Keep up the good work Eddie Stobart!!
 

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