PIR LIGHT not working.

Duff info in previous post, if pir live and switched live temp joined, the light will be live no matter whether switch is on.

What type of light is it?,check for damaged lamp to fitting connection(pins).
 
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Duff info in previous post, if pir live and switched live temp joined, the light will be live no matter whether switch is on.

What type of light is it?,check for damaged lamp to fitting connection(pins).
They are the R7 78mm type 150W i think - fitting aappears ok - must say previous light had well blown.
 
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Lighting circuit im presuming though haven't found where live to pir comes from yet.
How did you isolate it when disconnecting the switch?
I think in your case and with the information given, it is advised to call out an electrician, I cannot see how your problem can be resolved without an on-site visit.
 
I think in your case and with the information given, it is advised to call out an electrician, I cannot see how your problem can be resolved without an on-site visit.
Yes im going down that route but i like to know what problems are - i only change like for like and was going to change the switch for a chrome one but will not do until this problm resolved.
 
How did you isolate it when disconnecting the switch?

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Its deffo from oe of my downstairs lighting circuits - isolated at box checked power then removed switched op from switch - found 230v when circuit made live again - also carried out resistance check of switch when power was off - switch was ok.
Tomorrow want to remove 2 red live feeds to switch - check which has power and when other is seperate whether power is still on switched side as that could be feed to pir?
 
As i've found out many times in my job - should have found how its works when all was working - ie what circuit feeds what - as now its lot harder.
 
I cannot get my head around why you have switch live conductor measuring 240V on an open circuit. Without seeing what is what I cannot offer any informed advise. I ask about the fuse connection unit just in case the light was powered via a socket circuit and maybe someone had connected reverse polarity in the FCU and by coincidence the fuse has failed.
Can I assume that the switch did at one time function and operate as an on/off switch?
 
I cannot get my head around why you have switch live conductor measuring 240V on an open circuit. Without seeing what is what I cannot offer any informed advise. I ask about the fuse connection unit just in case the light was powered via a socket circuit and maybe someone had connected reverse polarity in the FCU and by coincidence the fuse has failed.
Can I assume that the switch did at one time function and operate as an on/off switch?
OK just to make things even more confusing - wifey says all now working as should - can only think that sensor iffy. but what about 230v on switched side -!!!!
 
If your switch is an override for the lamp only(not powering pir), when pir switches on power to lamp, it also sends power to switch wire(they are connected together somewhere ie at switch,pir or joint box).
 
If that was the case, I assume when the circuit was isolated that the override facility would have been cancelled, so when re-energized would a voltage at the switch line be expected on an open circuit?
 
My thoughts on this at the moment are what effect does light sensor have on operation during day - even though switch inside is on could there be a situation where lamp does not switch on due to light level?
 
Normally - After being off for a while, then switched on, the light will stay on for the set time and then revert to automatic mode whatever time of day it is.
 

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