Plastering a new kitchen extension question

[diy457]

If plastering a new breeze block kitchen extension as per drawings - "dryline internally with 12.5mm plasterboard dabbed onto the walls and 5mm skim finish" - what would the total depth of this be?

ie. how thick would the glue be (10mm?) OR the total space left between the wall and the plasterboard?

About 30mm total to where the paint would be applied?

Seems alot of depth to lose on a room on all sides.

Thanks.

 

[Karis]

If plastering a new breeze block kitchen extension as per drawings - "dryline internally with 12.5mm plasterboard dabbed onto the walls 5mm skim finish"

The skim is a bit on the thick side, probably going to be nearer 3-4mm with a two coat finish.

ie. how thick would the glue be (10mm?) OR the total space left between the wall and the plasterboard?

You can close board & get away with much less than that but it depends how flat the wall is.

About 30mm total to where the paint would be applied? Seems alot of depth to lose on a room on all sides.

You could probably get that down to nearer 20mm but, if it’s block work, why not have a proper plaster job done? A skim over base coat either render or base plaster will end up around 12-15mm total thickness. It will be much better job, stronger & outlast any dot & dab/skim plasterboard finish.

 

[diy457]

The 'drawings' say to plasterboard and glue and skim - i guess something to do with insulation level of the wall & u values. I do want to keep the place warm and use less heating for sure. So building regs?

I only ask the question because the boxes for the sockets have not been recessed into the blockwork = 28mm out. Hes probably also using it as a marker to keep the wall level when he skims?

I thought 'maybe' the builder was being slightly lazy but if he follows the rules then i guess it will be roughly 12.5mm+5mm= 17.5mm. Therefore leaving 10.5mm for glue? Alot.

Seems alot to me but i can only undermine the builder so much before the relationship goes belly up (wished id picked another builder)

Losing about 8mm in total then if 20mm is the best i can get it. Luckily the other side is just plasterboard on a partition so not losing anything.

 

[Karis]

The 'drawings' say to plasterboard and glue and skim - i guess something to do with insulation level of the wall & u values. I do want to keep the place warm and use less heating for sure. So building regs?

Whose drawings are they, independent or produced by your builder? You can easily meet Building Regs insulation requirements with a render/plaster base coat & skim.

I only ask the question because the boxes for the sockets have not been recessed into the blockwork = 28mm out. Hes probably also using it as a marker to keep the wall level when he skims?

Well a surface fix certainly makes it quick & easy for the spark & all your builder needs to employ is a D&D board fixer who can board out to the boxes & skim the plaster board; a PB skimmer is a long, long way off a plasterer. It's quick & easy & everyone gains except you but without a definitive spec. (or if he's written it) that’s all many builders are interested in!

I thought 'maybe' the builder was being slightly lazy but if he follows the rules then i guess it will be roughly 12.5mm+5mm= 17.5mm. Therefore leaving 10.5mm for glue? Alot.

There are no rules that prohibit base plaster & skim; external walls only have to meet the insulation value which depends on the cavity depth, insulation & plaster depth but the builder is taking the easy option in every sense, nice & easy for everyone & there are no insulation restrictions on internal walls. I would never accept dot & dab plasterboard in my home.

Seems alot to me but i can only undermine the builder so much before the relationship goes belly up (wished id picked another builder)

Can’t really help you with that one. It always pays to research the alternatives you can use yourself, many builders will take the cheapest & easiest solution &, as long as it meets Building Regs, they don’t really care.

 

[diy457]

They are independent drawings and the inspector is the guy who did the drawings so he's making sure everything is in order abit.

"To be honest" im kinda tired. They've done a half decent clean job (with some big mistakes) - my opinion & others that have visited. They ain't bad and maybe im abit of a perfectionist - but they do try to get away with shortcuts and i don't know when to let it go or pull them up.

Oh well.. maybe 4-5 more weeks and then back to 'normal'.

 

[peaps2]

have you considered that the cost was taken into consideration to keep costs down?

 

[diy457]

hi peaps - I don't understand your comment.

 

[Karis]

He means D&D boarding was specified because it’s a cheaper option but nowhere near as good as a proper plastering job.

 

[peaps2]

I would have expected a budget to have been discussed..? It's cheaper to board it.

 

[diy457]

The drawings / spec was done completely independently of the builder.

We agreed a price based on a different spec sheet which didnt detail plastering to that level of detail. I'm just a regular guy getting some building work done - first time in my life so I have little idea of details such as this until now.

Builder didn't get drawings until after we had agreed price.

At this stage I got to just go with it. I think Ive used most of my questioning without some serious falling out...

Not going to be doing building work anytime soon after this... too much stress.

 

[headworx]

Just had a kitchen extension done myself -
The builder did all the birckwork etc and I did all the insulation and boarding/skimming.

As mentioned it depends how straight your walls are, but I dot and dabbed (prob about 1cm thickness) with 12.5mm soundboard (its stronger and heavier than plasterboard, takes a knock better and also I got it for a good price from Ebay). If you need the contact, let me know and I'll put you in touch with him. Turned out about £8 a board.

Then I skimmed about 3-4 mm (2 coat multifinish).

In the big scheme of things losing a bit of room aint nothing - At least you aint gotta batten it and insualte it like that, it would be prob 500mm a wall you'd lose then.

I think you are just being a perfectionist with it (nothing wrong with that - I'm the same prob moreso, but if your builder is ok, dont get on bad terms with him.)

Have fun - I know I did!
I'm sure I still got shavnigs of celotex in my lungs - What a messy job that was!