Plastering around timber beam

[roughcaster]

A photograph of the beam, (if possible), would give us a better idea of what you're trying to say.

 

[1john]

yes roughcaster, infact it's so obvious, I guess i couldn't see the wood for the trees!

 

[roughcaster]

yes roughcaster, infact it's so obvious, I guess

i couldn't see the wood for the trees!

Nice one our John!!

 

[stevegreen]

I'll try to paint a better picture: The oak beam is a feature beam above a fireplace, the beam is to sit on blockwork pillars which jut into the room about 18", the blockwork above the beam completes the breasting but only upto the ceiling. Hope this makes it a bit clearer. Thanks

 

[Alastairreid]

I thought it was an oak beam at ceiling level

 

[joe-90]

What a waste of time.

 

[stevegreen]

What do you mean a waste of time joe 90, a waste of whos time? yours!!
you replied twice once was to me "wait and see" that was helpful?
and then a crack at someone else who was trying to be helpful. Why don't you stick to facebook if you just want to chat and wind people up.

 

[joe-90]

If you put rubbish you'll get rubbish out. That's a waste of time.

 

[1john]

Hi Steve, I think you may have a few problems in the future as the wood shrinks. First that comes to mind is that as the beam skrinks the whole lot will shift down, leaving a crack as the ceiling level, the second would be the concern of the timber twisting as it dries, sadly I haven't got any solutions for these two issues. I suspect that you may just have to suck it and see.

Regards

John

 

[stevegreen]

Thanks john, I'm going to support the two and a half courses of block just above the beam on some heavy angle iron which is supported either side of the beam so as the beam shrinks the blocks will stay were they are.
So i need to drop the plaster below the top of the beam (but not in contact with it) by say 1/2" to account for future shrinkage, this is why I was thinking of bellbead, but I think a better suggestion was stop bead. What do you think?

 

[roy c]

I thought I would stick my oar in aswell, why dont you get the beam dried out before you put it in? There must be a way of "speed" drying it!!

 

[1john]

If thats the case steve, just leave it be, when it shrinks then just pack it up and patch in the gap, it will be in a shadow so wont matter too much.

 

[stevegreen]

o.k john thanks
Roy, feel free to stick your oar in, it is possible to kiln dry oak, but normally 3-4" max. Air dried is normally only option for larger beams and even then once the central heating gets hold of it, the moisture level drops even further. I'm quite happy with splits and shrinkage, it all adds to the character, I just thought I may be able to reduce some of the inevitable plaster - wood junction in some way.

 

[Alastairreid]

to account for future shrinkage, this is why I was thinking of bellbead, but I think a better suggestion was stop bead. What do you think?

I think plaster stop bead would work better than bellcast bead Steve.

 

[stevegreen]

Yes, i think stop beads the answer (or best solution anyway).
Thanks chaps.