Plastering over inside wall treated with Thompsons WaterSeal

[stevethespreader]

SBR slury is not water based.

Why remove/degrade a water repellent coat in an area that may have damp?

Don't know where you get your SBR from but mine is definitely diluted in water, at the end of the day the wrong product was used , and yes there is a barrier there but nothing will stick to it!!, fix a membrane over it and save your self some trouble

it looks like you can get latex based or water based sbr, but netheless i still think spatterdash is the way forward thats how i would do it i cant see there being any problem there s no need to be rushing out buying membranes but if thats how you would do it fair enough, it gives the op something to think about

 

[peaps]

SBR slury is not water based.

Why remove/degrade a water repellent coat in an area that may have damp?

Don't know where you get your SBR from but mine is definitely diluted in water, at the end of the day the wrong product was used , and yes there is a barrier there but nothing will stick to it!!, fix a membrane over it and save your self some trouble

it looks like you can get latex based or water based sbr, but netheless i still think spatterdash is the way forward thats how i would do it i cant see there being any problem there s no need to be rushing out buying membranes but if thats how you would do it fair enough, it gives the op something to think about

You have no idea how both will react in the long term so chemical key in this instance is not the way to go. Why go out and spend good money when you can rake out the "pointing" or scutch the brickwork? After all it would be the strongest key and last longer....

 

[peaps]

Your damp proofer is talking bollux anyway. a house gets barely any water on the walls when it rains. To make the walls wet it is coming off your roof somehow.

Pot, kettle....

 

[stevethespreader]

SBR slury is not water based.

Why remove/degrade a water repellent coat in an area that may have damp?

Don't know where you get your SBR from but mine is definitely diluted in water, at the end of the day the wrong product was used , and yes there is a barrier there but nothing will stick to it!!, fix a membrane over it and save your self some trouble

it looks like you can get latex based or water based sbr, but netheless i still think spatterdash is the way forward thats how i would do it i cant see there being any problem there s no need to be rushing out buying membranes but if thats how you would do it fair enough, it gives the op something to think about

You have no idea how both will react in the long term so chemical key in this instance is not the way to go. Why go out and spend good money when you can rake out the "pointing" or scutch the brickwork? After all it would be the strongest key and last longer....

that waterseal has changed the quality of the brick im not sure that just hacking with the scutch hammer may be good enough i can remember the adverts for that stuff it must have sucked in to the bricks by at least an inch if not more, what do you mean react in the long term? what do you think is going to happen if you use sbr? do you think the waterseal is going to disolve the spatterdash or something? or vice versa? , anyway just a spatterdash may be good enough in this situation without the sbr now the op has 3 options what is he gonna choose i wonder?

 

[peaps]

SBR slury is not water based.

Why remove/degrade a water repellent coat in an area that may have damp?

Don't know where you get your SBR from but mine is definitely diluted in water, at the end of the day the wrong product was used , and yes there is a barrier there but nothing will stick to it!!, fix a membrane over it and save your self some trouble

it looks like you can get latex based or water based sbr, but netheless i still think spatterdash is the way forward thats how i would do it i cant see there being any problem there s no need to be rushing out buying membranes but if thats how you would do it fair enough, it gives the op something to think about

You have no idea how both will react in the long term so chemical key in this instance is not the way to go. Why go out and spend good money when you can rake out the "pointing" or scutch the brickwork? After all it would be the strongest key and last longer....

that waterseal has changed the quality of the brick im not sure that just hacking with the scutch hammer may be good enough i can remember the adverts for that stuff it must have sucked in to the bricks by at least an inch if not more, what do you mean react in the long term? what do you think is going to happen if you use sbr? do you think the waterseal is going to disolve the spatterdash or something? or vice versa? , anyway just a spatterdash may be good enough in this situation without the sbr now the op has 3 options what is he gonna choose i wonder?

Oh dear me It is always best to apply renders toa mechanically keyed area, basics really. It matters not how far the ****ty waterproofer penetrated the brick if you are to scutch **** out of it to give it a MECHANICAL KEY or the alternative of removing the "pointing" as this would remove the ****ty waterproofer as well...!


The idea of plastering (In reputable plasterers) is to apply say a render that will last a lifetime and we all know that chemical applications have a "shelf life" degrade, more so if the chemical application have been applied incorrectly. Adding more chemical compounds to the mix is asking for trouble, in the long run.

Spatterdash is water based.. It also contains other addertive...

It matter not what advice he goes for but I can say that he will regret the chemical key option, in the long run.

Get over yourself. Some are in it for the money some take pride in their work and enjoy it. We know what side of the fence you sit.

 

[xr4x4]

SBR is designed to be used with cement or sand and cement as steve suggests.

You could also paint with blackjack and blind it by throwing sharp sand into the wet black jack. When dry, render onto this as the sand gives a key

done this a few times and the plaster hasnt fallen off yet..! allthough we used sand cement as base coat.

took ages to go off, which caused speader a few problems.... more tea and fag breaks than usual...!

 

[stevethespreader]

[Get over yourself. Some are in it for the money some take pride in their work and enjoy it. We know what side of the fence you sit.

there you go making asumptions again peaps you just cant helpyourself can you? theres nothing wrong with the way i would tackle that job and my work for that matter, trouble with you is your just stuck in the past you dont live in the present im still laughing at your comments about pva

 

[peaps]

[Get over yourself. Some are in it for the money some take pride in their work and enjoy it. We know what side of the fence you sit.

there you go making asumptions again peaps you just cant helpyourself can you? theres nothing wrong with the way i would tackle that job and my work for that matter, trouble with you is your just stuck in the past you dont live in the present im still laughing at your comments about pva

first time ive come across this, you must have asked the local numty in the store,
anyway i dont think you will be able to remove the waterseal as from what i understand it penitrates quite deep, i think the solution would be to spatterdash the walls to povide a key before the wall is rendered if your using sand and cement, an alternative would be to use bonding because you have sealed the walls up making them low or none suction, but i would prefer the splatterdash and sand and cement if it was my house

Thanks for the replies. How would I apply a splatterdash to the wall?

If I went for the bonding option, what would you use for this? Is this applied to the wall before applying a sand and cement render?

The damp specialist arrived today and gave me a packet of the correct water proofer, said to mix it with the water used in the render.

forget about the bonding its an undercoat for low suction backgrounds which could have been an option but go with the render heres a link to a guide using sbr its good for low suction walls which you now have because of the water seal http://www.permagard.co.uk/media/uploads/SBR Bonding Additive Data Sheet.pdf , or you could just spatterdash with cement or cement with a hand full of sand which would still give you a mechanical key

Changed your mind after you googled? Interesting you have missed the point of a solvent based WATER repellant and advise the use of a water base dash..?

to be honest i don't think using sbr and cement as a "spatterdash" will help you out of this situation, as far as i am aware Thompsons is silicone suspended in a solvent, so this will repel any thing that you apply that is water based, either create a really good mechanical key (grind out all mortar joints and score the bricks heavily, as suggested previously) or fix an oldroyed type membrane with mechanical fixings and then render or plaster in dri coat etc

Read back at your posts and at best it looks like you are guessing.

Hardly stuck in the past. I apply traditional plastering techniques when needed and moden when needed. No need to fix something that isn't broken.

I'm time servedand you?

 

[stevethespreader]

[Get over yourself. Some are in it for the money some take pride in their work and enjoy it. We know what side of the fence you sit.

there you go making asumptions again peaps you just cant helpyourself can you? theres nothing wrong with the way i would tackle that job and my work for that matter, trouble with you is your just stuck in the past you dont live in the present im still laughing at your comments about pva

first time ive come across this, you must have asked the local numty in the store,
anyway i dont think you will be able to remove the waterseal as from what i understand it penitrates quite deep, i think the solution would be to spatterdash the walls to povide a key before the wall is rendered if your using sand and cement, an alternative would be to use bonding because you have sealed the walls up making them low or none suction, but i would prefer the splatterdash and sand and cement if it was my house

Thanks for the replies. How would I apply a splatterdash to the wall?

If I went for the bonding option, what would you use for this? Is this applied to the wall before applying a sand and cement render?

The damp specialist arrived today and gave me a packet of the correct water proofer, said to mix it with the water used in the render.

forget about the bonding its an undercoat for low suction backgrounds which could have been an option but go with the render heres a link to a guide using sbr its good for low suction walls which you now have because of the water seal http://www.permagard.co.uk/media/uploads/SBR Bonding Additive Data Sheet.pdf , or you could just spatterdash with cement or cement with a hand full of sand which would still give you a mechanical key

Changed your mind after you googled? Interesting you have missed the point of a solvent based WATER repellant and advise the use of a water base dash..?

to be honest i don't think using sbr and cement as a "spatterdash" will help you out of this situation, as far as i am aware Thompsons is silicone suspended in a solvent, so this will repel any thing that you apply that is water based, either create a really good mechanical key (grind out all mortar joints and score the bricks heavily, as suggested previously) or fix an oldroyed type membrane with mechanical fixings and then render or plaster in dri coat etc

Read back at your posts and at best it looks like you are guessing.

Hardly stuck in the past. I apply traditional plastering techniques when needed and moden when needed. No need to fix something that isn't broken.

I'm time servedand you?

changed my mind after ive googled? there you go assuming again trouble is youve had your head stuck up your @rse for the last 24 years you dont know what time of day it is, time served? yeah im time served with a city&guilds level3 and a nvq2 as well to boot

 

[stevethespreader]

but I can say that he will regret the chemical key option, in the long run.

whys that then?

 

[peaps]

[Get over yourself. Some are in it for the money some take pride in their work and enjoy it. We know what side of the fence you sit.

there you go making asumptions again peaps you just cant helpyourself can you? theres nothing wrong with the way i would tackle that job and my work for that matter, trouble with you is your just stuck in the past you dont live in the present im still laughing at your comments about pva

first time ive come across this, you must have asked the local numty in the store,
anyway i dont think you will be able to remove the waterseal as from what i understand it penitrates quite deep, i think the solution would be to spatterdash the walls to povide a key before the wall is rendered if your using sand and cement, an alternative would be to use bonding because you have sealed the walls up making them low or none suction, but i would prefer the splatterdash and sand and cement if it was my house

Thanks for the replies. How would I apply a splatterdash to the wall?

If I went for the bonding option, what would you use for this? Is this applied to the wall before applying a sand and cement render?

The damp specialist arrived today and gave me a packet of the correct water proofer, said to mix it with the water used in the render.

forget about the bonding its an undercoat for low suction backgrounds which could have been an option but go with the render heres a link to a guide using sbr its good for low suction walls which you now have because of the water seal http://www.permagard.co.uk/media/uploads/SBR Bonding Additive Data Sheet.pdf , or you could just spatterdash with cement or cement with a hand full of sand which would still give you a mechanical key

Changed your mind after you googled? Interesting you have missed the point of a solvent based WATER repellant and advise the use of a water base dash..?

to be honest i don't think using sbr and cement as a "spatterdash" will help you out of this situation, as far as i am aware Thompsons is silicone suspended in a solvent, so this will repel any thing that you apply that is water based, either create a really good mechanical key (grind out all mortar joints and score the bricks heavily, as suggested previously) or fix an oldroyed type membrane with mechanical fixings and then render or plaster in dri coat etc

Read back at your posts and at best it looks like you are guessing.

Hardly stuck in the past. I apply traditional plastering techniques when needed and moden when needed. No need to fix something that isn't broken.

I'm time servedand you?

changed my mind after ive googled? there you go assuming again trouble is youve had your head stuck up your @rse for the last 24 years you dont know what time of day it is, time served? yeah im time served with a city&guilds level3 and a nvq2 as well to boot

Yes as a time served plasterer you would have a guilds level3 But all this isn't getting down to you explaining why use a water base solution when the wall has a solvent base water repelent applied..?

By the way it would be strange to serve your timeas a plasterer thengo onto a level 3 guilds and a NVQ2. You need 1 and 2 guilds before you go onto a 3 for a start but I digress.

It would be better for you to backup your advice when confronted with questions, you can't.

Maybe youcould come give us advice on this 1466 timber framed house we are renovating, mind you, I'm not sure English herretige would be happy with you turning up with your PVA, easyfill and dash

It's plasterers such as you that have trashed listed buildings with your NVQ2s

 

[peaps]

but I can say that he will regret the chemical key option, in the long run.

whys that then?

I'm not sure it can be made anymore clearer

 

[stevethespreader]

but I can say that he will regret the chemical key option, in the long run.

whys that then?

I'm not sure it can be made anymore clearer

you mean you dont know why? or you cant explain maybe? why the splatterdash will fail?

 

[stevethespreader]

[Get over yourself. Some are in it for the money some take pride in their work and enjoy it. We know what side of the fence you sit.

there you go making asumptions again peaps you just cant helpyourself can you? theres nothing wrong with the way i would tackle that job and my work for that matter, trouble with you is your just stuck in the past you dont live in the present im still laughing at your comments about pva

first time ive come across this, you must have asked the local numty in the store,
anyway i dont think you will be able to remove the waterseal as from what i understand it penitrates quite deep, i think the solution would be to spatterdash the walls to povide a key before the wall is rendered if your using sand and cement, an alternative would be to use bonding because you have sealed the walls up making them low or none suction, but i would prefer the splatterdash and sand and cement if it was my house

Thanks for the replies. How would I apply a splatterdash to the wall?

If I went for the bonding option, what would you use for this? Is this applied to the wall before applying a sand and cement render?

The damp specialist arrived today and gave me a packet of the correct water proofer, said to mix it with the water used in the render.

forget about the bonding its an undercoat for low suction backgrounds which could have been an option but go with the render heres a link to a guide using sbr its good for low suction walls which you now have because of the water seal http://www.permagard.co.uk/media/uploads/SBR Bonding Additive Data Sheet.pdf , or you could just spatterdash with cement or cement with a hand full of sand which would still give you a mechanical key

Changed your mind after you googled? Interesting you have missed the point of a solvent based WATER repellant and advise the use of a water base dash..?

to be honest i don't think using sbr and cement as a "spatterdash" will help you out of this situation, as far as i am aware Thompsons is silicone suspended in a solvent, so this will repel any thing that you apply that is water based, either create a really good mechanical key (grind out all mortar joints and score the bricks heavily, as suggested previously) or fix an oldroyed type membrane with mechanical fixings and then render or plaster in dri coat etc

Read back at your posts and at best it looks like you are guessing.

Hardly stuck in the past. I apply traditional plastering techniques when needed and moden when needed. No need to fix something that isn't broken.

I'm time servedand you?

changed my mind after ive googled? there you go assuming again trouble is youve had your head stuck up your @rse for the last 24 years you dont know what time of day it is, time served? yeah im time served with a city&guilds level3 and a nvq2 as well to boot

Yes as a time served plasterer you would have a guilds level3 But all this isn't getting down to you explaining why use a water base solution when the wall has a solvent base water repelent applied..?

By the way it would be strange to serve your timeas a plasterer thengo onto a level 3 guilds and a NVQ2. You need 1 and 2 guilds before you go onto a 3 for a start but I digress.

It would be better for you to backup your advice when confronted with questions, you can't.

Maybe youcould come give us advice on this 1466 timber framed house we are renovating, mind you, I'm not sure English herretige would be happy with you turning up with your PVA, easyfill and dash

It's plasterers such as you that have trashed listed buildings with your NVQ2s

i got my nvq2 through osat onsite assesment which was needed by the cscs registration scheme but I STATE i have an nvq level2 not level3 so you misread that wrong now if just by chance you were mistaken and meant the city and guilds yes i have 1&2 as well copys of those qualifications can be seen on my website where a link can be found in my profile and dont go preaching to me about heritage ive spent a year heratige training as well but decided thats not for me heratige is a joke i spent a month on a listed pub this year using modern methods,(photos in profile) they couldent give a sh1t

 

[stevethespreader]

[Maybe youcould come give us advice on this 1466 timber framed house we are renovating, mind you, I'm not sure English herretige would be happy with you turning up with your PVA, easyfill and dash

It's plasterers such as you that have trashed listed buildings with your NVQ2s

why would you want advice on a job your on? if you dont know anything you shouldent be there, i hope youve got your heratage nvq3 qualifications, because ive heard on the grapevine that at some point anyone that hasent got one wont be able to work on heratige, im halfway there with my heratage 3 qualification your nothing other than an unqualified numpty who lives in a dreamworld calling me and other spreads with nvqs trash ipmsl