Plastering small stud wall

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I'm refurbishing a downstairs toilet and have just installed a Geberit WC frame to support a wall hanging toilet. I’ve built a stud frame around it and glued/screwed 12mm Hardiebacker board to the frame. As it is our intention to paint (and not tile) the wall, I would like it to be plastered.

I will be hiring a plasterer as I have no plastering skills myself, but would like to understand the required preparation that is likely to be needed, possibly with a view to doing this myself and if not, to ensure the plasterer does it correctly!


As you can see from the photo, it is a flat small area of 90cm wide and 110cm high. The top of the stud wall and windows recess will be fitted with a wooden shelf.

The first thing I assume will be required is an angle bead fitted to the top of the new stud wall to ensure a nice clean top edge to the plaster onto which the front edge of the shelf will sit? As there are two pieces of cement board, I assume some fibreglass jointing tape will need to be run over the joint between them.

According to Hardiebacker, the boards will need to be primed with PVA, although I suspect Blue Grit would give a better preparation for plastering?

Finally, I'm not sure what would need to be done for the two internal corners, where the cement board meets the existing plastered walls. There is a 3mm gap at the moment, as recommended by Hardiebacker, and this will need filling, possibly with a flexible sealant (silicon or decorators caulk?). Using flexible sealant seems pointless when the plaster won't be flexible!

If the whole toilet was being plastered, then these internal corners would have fibreglass jointing tape fitted, but this isn't really possible unless the plastering is taken around the corner and onto the existing plaster. So, what is the best way to handle these corners?

I would appreciate your feedback on the best preparation approach for this small job.
 
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I would allow a removable panel that can access the flush pipe where it connects to the toilet and cistern. Also make sure the horizontal top is removable for access.

Andy
 
I would allow a removable panel that can access the flush pipe where it connects to the toilet and cistern. Also make sure the horizontal top is removable for access.

Andy

The top will be fitted with a wooden shelf and I will fit this in a way that will allow it to be removed for access from above.

I'm not sure about the benefit of accessing the flush pipe, unless you think it will require some maintenance in the future. Given these frames/cisterns are designed to be installed within a wall, I would hope not!

There is access to the internals of the cistern through the flush plate front, which isn't shown in my photo as I've only just realised I forgot to cut this out of the cement board!!! Doh!
 
I have been called out to many of these where they leak on the flush pipe and the only access is by removing the toilet.

Andy
 
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I have been called out to many of these where they leak on the flush pipe and the only access is by removing the toilet.

Andy

Removing the toilet wouldn't be too big a job. Once any silicon sealant has been removed it can be simply unscrewed and pulled away from the wall, giving the same access as I currently have. Admittedly, if the flush pipe starts leaking from the point at which it connects into the cistern then that would be a big problem! However, I see there is a seal at the end of the flush pipe, where the toilet pipe fitting pushes in. I could imagine that may eventually fail and I suspect this is what you are referring to.

Access is obviously the biggest concern about fitting a concealed cistern and that's part of the reason I purchased Geberit as they are a good brand. I fitted a similar hanging toilet in our bathroom over a year ago and so far no issues (fingers crossed). Now that would be a pain to access as it has been tiled over!
 
A plasterer came this morning and skimmed the new stud wall. My earlier questions were answered by him as follows:

- An angle bead was fitted to the top of the new stud wall to give a nice sharp edge.
- Fibreglass jointing tape was used where the two pieces of hardiebacker board were joined, but it wasn't necessary on the corners where the cement board meets the existing walls. These gaps were filled with caulk (not silicon sealant).
- The cement board was primed using Blue Grit.
 

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