Plastering Techniques / Advice

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I've recently bought a house where half the interior walls are artexed, which I'm attempting to plaster over, its going reasonably well, but could do with a few tips form the professionals

I've knocked off the high points off the artex, then PVAing the walls, letting it dry then plastering (thistle multifinish)the wall level with the highest point, then applying a second coat after the first one is firm. Then I'm letting the final coat dry for around 20 mins or so and running the trowel over the wall (in all directions?) to smooth off ridge lines etc, combined with a using a water sprayer to wetten the surface.

Problems,

Sometimes manage to get trowel ridge lines in the plaster when attempting to smooth it, together with sometimes catching the trowel edge in the semi set plaster leaving dig marks. This may sound as though its awful, but actually overall it does n't look too bad, but I would like to improve my technique, so the wall is completely flat with no marks (is this called polishing) Finally when the wall dries it dries very patchy thoughnot particularly lumpy.

I guess I'm looking for an a-z guide (any on the web?) of how to properly plaster and finish it off well on the second coat. Overall I do manage to get it relatively level and flat, but its the finishing of the second coat I could improve a fair bit. Has anyone any tips as to techniques, correct tools to use etc for finshing off the wall. I'm happy to put the effort in and want to master this skill, but need some advice to move forward.

Samples below of my attempts

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p259/CraigBBR/CIMG0101.jpg?t=1169473450
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p259/CraigBBR/CIMG0099.jpg
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p259/CraigBBR/CIMG0100.jpg?t=1169473531
 
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Its amazing how much difference a GOOD float makes. Get a marshalltown permashape stainless float.

I would say that you are playing with it too much. i see quite a few drag marks from a dry float. It all comes down to experience. You get to know when its time to trowel up.
 
agree with diyisfree. to much random trowel action.

you should always try and apply the skim from the perimeters of the wall and work inwards. wether that means starting at the ceiling and spreading the muck downwards, or floor upwards or from the walls inwards.

lay it off in long even stokes.

always apply a minimum of two coats. the first coat will deal with the initial suction of the wall, and make the second easier to work. don't take too long between coats.

wet the backing plaster if it has completely dried out.
 
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On the finishing coat do not random trowl in all directios follow a pattern trowl from low lwevel to high level in straight strokes turning at the end of the stroke in an arc :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
Thanks for the tips, i ordered a dvd from the plastering school and have just watched it, not quite as exciting as the latest block buster but have learned a bit.

I don't use a hawk and dip my trowel into the bucket and do a bit at a time, where as in the dvd they use a board, put it on to the hawk and then do a large sweep in a line and back again, then with the second coat they start to remove the trowel lines. then they wet it trough then dry trough it etc for 6 stages.

My next wall ill try using the hawk and applyling long vertical or horizontal lines of platster and not keep try to smooth my lines out all over the place. Get ready for the next batch of photos !! ;)

What do you mean by "You should lightly sand back first."
 
If your surface has a highly polished finish. It may not provide adequate adhesion for the paint. In the same way you would sand down glosss paint before recoating. you are providing a rough key for the fresh paint to stick to.

If you don't do this, you will probably see the de-laminating effects as the paint lifts. I have seen this happen particularly on paint a second coat on new plaster. The second coat softens the first and as there is inadequate adhesion, it lifts the first coat off.

Mark
 
Wasted said:
If your surface has a highly polished finish. It may not provide adequate adhesion for the paint. In the same way you would sand down glosss paint before recoating. you are providing a rough key for the fresh paint to stick to.

If you don't do this, you will probably see the de-laminating effects as the paint lifts. I have seen this happen particularly on paint a second coat on new plaster. The second coat softens the first and as there is inadequate adhesion, it lifts the first coat off.

Mark

and its a nightmare, i had this problem once when i was teaching myself. Also remember to water down your first coat of paint by 1/3rd on new plastered walls. This will also help stop 'lifting'.

Sounds like your having fun, keep going!
 

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