Hi All. Can anyone please help me. I have been decorating and had to take the radiator off the wall, but on putting it back on I am having diffilculty in stopping it leaking from the side where the numbers are. I came across a valve which looks like a reducer of some sort but it does`nt seem to fit Tried fitting it both ways but unable to sort out which way it goes, and nut does`nt fit the thread. Any help is very much appreciated(carpet soaking). Many thanks in anticipation. Paul.
Please Help!! Radiator Valve Probs
- Thread starter brunoben
- Start date
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Crikey! I nearly had to take my glasses off to read that! 
What was the problem with fitting it back as it was before? Why do you need another valve?
If water is coming out very quickly make sure that no more can get into the system - disconnect the filling loop or tie up the ball valve as appropriate.
What was the problem with fitting it back as it was before? Why do you need another valve?
If water is coming out very quickly make sure that no more can get into the system - disconnect the filling loop or tie up the ball valve as appropriate.
Nice 1 mogget for replying. Sorry about the font was a bit loud
When I was putting the radiator back I noticed what looks like a olive reducer on the carpet did not see it fall out but it will not go back in.The water pipe feeding the radiator looks like 8mm? doe`s this make any sense?I have tried just putting the pipe into the valve but it leaks all the time. I cannot get the nut to go on the pipe properly it goes on but I don`t think the olive is on enough .Does this help? Paul.
When I was putting the radiator back I noticed what looks like a olive reducer on the carpet did not see it fall out but it will not go back in.The water pipe feeding the radiator looks like 8mm? doe`s this make any sense?I have tried just putting the pipe into the valve but it leaks all the time. I cannot get the nut to go on the pipe properly it goes on but I don`t think the olive is on enough .Does this help? Paul.
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Hi Mogget I would say that the pipe is 8mm and the inlet is 15mm The olive I think thats what it is ,is like you say chunky just took some pics to try and show you thats why I have not replied sooner sorry.Hope the pics are clear enough TA.
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Check the size of the microbore pipe, it could be 8mm or 10mm - measure the hole in the reducing piece you have.
You will need a few inches of 15mm pipe - possibly re used if someone you know has a scrap. Otherwise you'll have to buy 2 metres at the diy store along with the other bits.
You will also need.
A reducing compression coupler, 15mm x 8mm brass.
A new 15mm olive, they come in packs of 5 and look like mini wedding rings, not chunky.
Some jointing compound (water hawk or similar)
A bottle of central heating corrosion inhibitor for when you refill the system.
Tools - two adjustable spanners and a mini pipe cutter/hacksaw/junior hacksaw.
Cut a length of 15mm pipe, say about 3 inches long, but only you can see the job. Assemble this into the 15mm end of the reducing coupler using a smear of jointing compound on the olive. If you're not sure how to do it, read up first.
Then assemble the other end of the 15mm into the inlet of the rad valve in the same manner. You will now have an 8mm socket pointing downward and a bit of 8mm pipe that is too long. Cut the 8mm pipe to the correct length, bearing in mind that it has to slide into the socket so may need to be longer than you expect.
Assemble the 8mm joint in the same way as the other two, using less force, it's smaller - don't overtighten.
Fill the system, check for leaks and fix any that you find.
Once you're sure there are no leaks, add the inhibitor to the system water (have a look in the FAQ's). Inhibitor is essential, don't skimp on it!
It won't be the prettiest repair in the world but it will work if done correctly.
Hope that helps.
PS here is a pic of a reducing coupler - screwfix don't seem to sell 8mm ones but it will help you know what you are looking at --> http://www.screwfix.com/prods/51238...ng-15-10mm;jsessionid=T1E3KHVFVX4LCCSTHZPCFFQ
And one more tip, diy sheds like wickes and b+q are more likely to have what you need than homebase/focus etc.
You will need a few inches of 15mm pipe - possibly re used if someone you know has a scrap. Otherwise you'll have to buy 2 metres at the diy store along with the other bits.
You will also need.
A reducing compression coupler, 15mm x 8mm brass.
A new 15mm olive, they come in packs of 5 and look like mini wedding rings, not chunky.
Some jointing compound (water hawk or similar)
A bottle of central heating corrosion inhibitor for when you refill the system.
Tools - two adjustable spanners and a mini pipe cutter/hacksaw/junior hacksaw.
Cut a length of 15mm pipe, say about 3 inches long, but only you can see the job. Assemble this into the 15mm end of the reducing coupler using a smear of jointing compound on the olive. If you're not sure how to do it, read up first.
Then assemble the other end of the 15mm into the inlet of the rad valve in the same manner. You will now have an 8mm socket pointing downward and a bit of 8mm pipe that is too long. Cut the 8mm pipe to the correct length, bearing in mind that it has to slide into the socket so may need to be longer than you expect.
Assemble the 8mm joint in the same way as the other two, using less force, it's smaller - don't overtighten.
Fill the system, check for leaks and fix any that you find.
Once you're sure there are no leaks, add the inhibitor to the system water (have a look in the FAQ's). Inhibitor is essential, don't skimp on it!
It won't be the prettiest repair in the world but it will work if done correctly.
Hope that helps.
PS here is a pic of a reducing coupler - screwfix don't seem to sell 8mm ones but it will help you know what you are looking at --> http://www.screwfix.com/prods/51238...ng-15-10mm;jsessionid=T1E3KHVFVX4LCCSTHZPCFFQ
And one more tip, diy sheds like wickes and b+q are more likely to have what you need than homebase/focus etc.
Great advice Mogget really appreciate you going out of you way to give me this advice. I have some small peices of copper and olives and a cutter so its just the coupling I will need. How do I add the inhibiter? Looks like my missus will have to wait for her shower ha!
I still don't know if you've got an open vent system or pressurised - if its an open vent, tie up the float valve in the smaller tank, drain some water from the system so the tank is empty, tip the inhibitor in, and untie the float valve.
You can, yes, although it will be a little more difficult, usually the easiest way it to take one of the blank plugs out of the radiator and use a funnel / rolled up magazine cover to pour the liquid in. You can get it in there just about any way you choose however. For a bit more money you can buy a cartridge of inhibitor that goes in a sealant gun - you inject it through one of the bleed points.
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