I don’t use timber battens or plugs & screws; if you initially dot & dab the panels to hold them in place, you can mechanically fix with through (frame) fixings directly to the wall. Drill small pilot holes on a grid of 200 x 200mm so you know where the adhesive dabs are (the adhesive oozes through), erect & level the boards & leave for 24 hours for the adhesive to set; important or you will most likely break the adhesive bond & even crack the boards if you fix too early. Drill through the boards into the wall with the appropriately sized drill, insert the frame fixings & tighten but don’t be ham fisted & over do it.
Otherwise it depends on the size of your battens but I would use minimum no 10 screws which go into the blocks a minimum of 50mm
Thanks, but from what I've read about aquapanel, you are not supposed to dot and dab, it needs a gap behind it for air to circulate, hence the need for battens.
Thanks, but from what I've read about aquapanel, you are not supposed to dot and dab, it needs a gap behind it for air to circulate, hence the need for battens.
That will be the manufacturer’s instructions then . Knauf say no to relying on just the adhesive dabs to hold the boards in place (& they are right), that’s why it’s essential to provide the additional mechanical fixings. Many of the other (similar) cement board manufacturers use the same method as I describe; myself & probably thousands of other tilers, plasterers, bathroom fitters/renovators do this all the time as a read through the DIYnot archive posts will confirm. With the adhesive dabs, there will be air circulation behind although that’s only necessary if there is any chance of moisture/condensation for example on solid external brick walls; internal walls & external cavity walls with internal blocks, which I assumed you had, won’t need it.
Just trying to give you the benefit of trade practice & save you some work but, hey, your choice.
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