plumbing dilemmas...a request for advice.

Joined
26 Apr 2005
Messages
158
Reaction score
0
Location
Berkshire
Country
United Kingdom
If I could have some advice from the knowledgeable people of DIYNOT I’d be extremely grateful.

We have a converted chalet bungalow – c.1955. The heating up in the loft is fine, the heating in the new kitchen is fine. The heating in the old part of the house, especially the back rooms, isn’t the best. It takes a while for the heat to actually get around to the rads, and even then they never get that hot (the TRVs remain on 5, but remain tepid at best).

We’ve had a few heating engineers around, and none of them have been able to diagnose it (one slight caveat is the solid oak flooring, which I’d prefer not to take up!). There’s no sludge in the radiators or pipes – they’ve been cleaned, and there’s inhibitor in there.

Personally I think the old house is on a single circuit, so all the heat is dissipated before it gets to the latter rads. So the heat seems to go into the circuit via the downstairs bathroom, then the lounge, then the hall, then bedroom 3, then bedroom 4, then the study, and back to the boiler. Bedroom 4 and the study are the coldest. But if I turn the heating off in the lounge (when the stove is going say) they get hotter. Turn the hall and bathroom off, and they get hotter still.

Due to the time it takes for those rads to get up to temp, we seem to run the boiler longer than I think we should. The rest of the house gets too warm, and those two rooms are just starting to get to temperature. Coupled with the fact bedroom 4 and the study don’t get the sun, they’re often cold and damp compared with the rest of the house. Not good for sitting in the study, or in fact sleeping in the bedroom.

We now have the chance to set up a separate circuit for those two rads – the boiler/HWC has been moved into the bedroom above the two rooms. So we could take a spur, run some boxed in pipes down the wall, and feed those two radiators. This would obviously heat these two rooms up more; stopping the damp etc. Allow the heat to dissipate around that end of the house. Hopefully this would also enable the radiator in bedroom 3 – which is a lot lot better than the those two, but not 100% - to get warmer, as less heat would be needed further on around the original circuit.

What do people think? Would I be on right track about the single circuit, and taking two radiators off it would heat the others up more? It would obviously heat those two rooms up that need it the most, which would be good.

Or is there something else I should be looking at? Something else that could be the issue?


On a completely separate note; Worcester Bosch boilers and softened water. WB say no softened water past the heat exchanger. Harvey’s water softeners say it’s not a problem, and if there’s ever an issue they’ll pay. Again, what are people’s thoughts?

Many thanks
 
Sponsored Links
Water softener, follow the boiler manufacturers advice. If anything were to go wrong and they looked into it, your warranty could be void.

As far as the rads are concerned....

How many rads in total?
What boiler do you have?
 
fair enough - I'll follow what mr WB says.

We have 13 rads in all, and a brand new (well 12 months old) WB 30Kw CDI regular. Most of the time we use 12, and have UfH in the dining room.

The boiler doesn't really seem to be the problem; the rads on the newer circuits (ie upstairs, and in the newly extended kitchen) get hot quickly and effectively. The loft was converted 15 years ago, and is a proper double circuit from what I can see.

On the old circuit the rads closest to the input (ie downstairs bathroom and lounge) got hot slightly slower than the newest, but still get hot in a decent amount of time.
 
Presumably everything is being run (including thje UFH) off the boilers CH?

If this is the case, have you measured the output in KW of your system requirements against what your system can actually achieve?
 
Sponsored Links
the UfH is on its own zone, with its own thermostat.

The CH is on its own zone, with a Honeywell 927 thermostat.

The HW is obviously not connected to the CH.

We used to experience the issue with the old boiler - an 20 year old Worcester. Assumed that was just under powered but we still have the issue with the new one. Then assumed there was sludge (despite no sign of it...grasping at straws!), so replaced the rad in bedroom 4. No real difference.

then read this Single Circuit and all seemed to slot into place
 
Are all your TRVs set correctly and have you balanced the system as best you can?
 
the TRVs have mostly been replaced; the remaining old ones are working fine apparently (and to be fair do control the temp of the rads).

The system has been balanced by two sets of heating engineers.
 
The softener, properly installed, will have a by-pass. Simply fill CH with hard then switch back to soft water. Manufacturers of boilers these days void warranty for soft water. Then again they void it for hard water, certain chemicals, debris, wrong gas, wrong electricity, wrong RF controls, wrong trv's, etc.. Perhaps they should suggest a new universe be created around the needs of their product.
 
Thanks Tibbot - there is a bypass for the boiler. And when - rarely - I do top things up I use it. Just unsure whether I need to, as there's conflicting 'evidence' from the two suppliers.
 
Is it too big a job for you to have a flow and return pipe fitted.

With a single loop you are always going to have a problem with the rads at the end of the line being much cooler than at the start, so, i suggest if you run the other rads closer to the boiler via an earlier T, you are likely to just move the issue to other rads.
 
I did wonder that - whether I would be pushing the issue to bedroom 3. I did assume though that as it works well now, it would continue to work well (fewer rads on the circuit means the same amount of hot water been used less? Surely?)

Changing to a double loop would be lovely, but the floor.... it's a very nice floor!
 
it was down before we moved in - otherwise I'd be kicking myself we hadn't sorted it
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top