pond - starting again

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Our pond water was green. Awful. We had only one fish left (it was flooded in june 07, so contaminated), and 6 frogs (nature's own).

We turfed out all the frogs and put the fish in a bucket, and emptied the pond. The liner has been jet washed (carefully), and the 2 inches of 5 years of slurry on the bottom have been heaped out. Its now clean at last. The filter has been cleaned, and fresh tap water has been used to fill the pond half way (for now) so we could put the one fish back in.

So all we have is a 55w pump, filter (with 16w UV), and one fish, in a 4ft by 8ft pond, 30 inch deep.

Any recommendations what to do now? The water is beautifully clear (c/o yorkshire water), but how do we keep it this way? And how do we keep blanketweed at bay? (It takes over in summer) What planting should we go for in a pond of this size?
 
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To keep it clean you continuously filter and pump it.

The sludge you threw away was the basis for life in the pond.

It's a pity you saw fit to "turf" the frogs out, when amphibians generally are having such a hard time nowadays. Finding ANYWHERE fit to live in is difficult for them. The fact that you HAD frogs in the pond indicated there was nothing much wrong with it. So you have probably killed off the frogs for no useful benefit. :evil:
 
As oilman suggests, a 24 hr continuous filtration system will help - have read about those which incorporate a UV light to kill off algae, but don't know how effective they really are.

As for planting, you need to have the surface covered 1 third to a half by things such as lillies, and provide as many oxygenators as possible.

Any blanketweed needs to be removed as often as possible - you're never going to kill it, only keep it to managable proportions.
 
oilman the pond water was green permenantly, and nothing we did changed this. The filter had been cleaned a few times since april, and the UV has had a new tube. The poor fish that was in there hasn't seen daylight for a long time.

We will allow the frogs back in, im sure they will return in the spring and they begin their orgys.

I suspect the sludge in the bottom was, in fact, decaying matter (dead fish and plants as well as a few old planting pots and a gnome) - it needed cleaning out. Nothing healthy could live in that pond.

We have been out today and bought a lily and some wheatgrass (i think this is its name) stuff in a bag, which is attached to the pump so its submerged.

We have a big plant that was in the pond before, we have cleaned the pot and are going to introduce this later on.
 
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dex, the UV is very effective, but I find most filters the size of ours now come with tiny lamps, 4 to 8 watts. Ours is 16 watts! I'd always get the biggest I could if i was buying a new one.

We run the filter and pump 24 hours, as the filter can stagnate if theres no water running through it and the helpful bacteria die.
 
oilman the pond water was green permenantly, and nothing we did changed this. The filter had been cleaned a few times since april, and the UV has had a new tube. The poor fish that was in there hasn't seen daylight for a long time.

When it can see daylight, the heron can see the fish. Yum yum.

We will allow the frogs back in, im sure they will return in the spring and they begin their orgys.

Frogs lived there because it suited them, a crystal clear pond is unlikely to be any good for a frog.

I suspect the sludge in the bottom was, in fact, decaying matter (dead fish and plants as well as a few old planting pots and a gnome) - it needed cleaning out.

You are quite correct, the stuff in the bottom of the pond was decaying matter, It's part of the nutrient cycle. All natural ponds and shallow water lakes are like it. It did not NEED cleaning out, rather you WANTED to clean it.

Nothing healthy could live in that pond.

You earlier stated there were six frogs living in the pond. Either it was supporting healthy life, or there were no frogs. If, as you say, there were frogs, then there was nothing needed except to fish out the majority of blanket weed, and get some plants in that covered the surface to keep out the sunlight. Barley straw would have also helped to soak up the nutrients.
 
We just wanted a clean start oilman. Like I said, the pond was contaminated by flood water (from places I dont wanna describe) 2 years ago (we live near Toll Bar, one of the worst hit places in the floods). Two fish were found swimming round (next door but one's) garden, they returned them to us. The rest we had to round up on the lawn when the water level dropped. But the pond never really recovered from this contamination, we lost most of the fish (we had about 12, now 1). The only thing that could thrive in there was, as you say, frogs. Unfortunately we also want to keep goldfish, maybe a few koi. Pea soup is not the place to keep koi carp. So a clean start was in order with fresh water, a clean liner and no decaying matter. I'm also going to invest in a manual vacuum pump to suck up debris from the bottom of the pond.

This was the pond during the floods (water 14 inches deep around the pond)
DSC00554.jpg


For perspective, this was the pond yesterday, empty. The pond water is at ground level when full, with the walls 2 courses high around it to stop the dog taking an interest.

Photo128.jpg
 
If your pond was as bad as you say, then cleaning it out was probably a good thing.

Your 16w UV is plenty for a pond that size, if its working it will get rid of that green water in no time.

If you only have 1 fish in at the moment then your filter system will not work correctly, if it does it will take a long time. You need to have a few fish in the pond to get the system going, the system needs fish waste to activate itself and start to work

Dont put any Koi in your pond until you have healthy balance, get yourself a test kit and keep an eye on the nitrate and nitrite levels. You dont want to get some Koi and then they all snuff it!
 
Steve - satisfactory design for a fish pond but not good for frogs, toads & newts; easy for them to get in but almost impossible for them to climb out. If you want them to thrive (and not die of exhaustion trying to scale those shear cliffs) introduce a couple of gentle slopes.
 
I was thinking about getting shot of the end wall, so theres just the two side walls, just having the coping on top of the liner. The frogs can just jump out then. I do want to encourage them, I like seeing them.

By the way thats not me wading in the photo, its my sisters ex.

The pond as it stands now:

Photo133.jpg
 
I can't help but think that your pond is way too small to entertain the idea of any koi at all - these notoriously create a lot of waste and require large and deep pools with large external filtration systems.
 
I can't help but think that your pond is way too small to entertain the idea of any koi at all - these notoriously create a lot of waste and require large and deep pools with large external filtration systems.

your right koi need at least 1m in depth
 
I've built a few ponds in my time. The last one I build was for my dad at his house. It's 25,000 gallons so a bit of a whopper at 33' x 16' and 8' deep.

The stage you are at now where the water is nice and clear will not last for long unfortunately.

Basically you have cleaned the filter out, I assume you used tap water. The chlorine in tap water although it's only a small amount is there to kill off most of the bacteria so it's drinkable. However it will have the same effect on your filter killing all the good bacteria that was there to filter the water.

You need to get your nitrogen cycle working again. I’ve copied and pasted a post I put up on a Koi forum about 7 years ago for a perfect filter, although it may be out of date, the principle are the same and certain things like natures cycles never change.

-----------------------------------

1) Ammonia is produced by a) fish respiration, excretion and constant urinating. b) plants decomposing c) excess food (this is the biggest contributor).

In a basic koi pond there are not many plants, so the next steps are done by the process of our filters.

2) Within the first chamber we have brushes and/or nets. We need to get rid of some of these ammonia producing particles. So we have a mechanical filter. This will catch excretion and waste food and also parts of decomposing plants. At this stage Ammonia will still be present in the water. Please note that Ammonia is highly toxic to fish, even in small concentrations.

3) The next stage is the bio filter. This will consist of Flocor, Stinted glass, Japanese matting etc. the higher the surface area, the better. This filter must be covered to protect from sunlight. Within this filter and on the filter media live bacteria called Nitrosomonas. These bacteria are aerobic which means they require oxygen to survive. So it is essential that you provide these guys with as much Oxygen as possible via an airline (i.e air pump with air stone). They also need food, their favourite food is Ammonia. So, by eating Ammonia (NH3) and breathing Oxygen (O2), they excrete Nitrite (NO2).

Also within this filter chamber you will have bacteria called Nitrobacter. These guys are also aerobic so they also need a constant supply of oxygen. Unlike the Nitrosomonas, the Nitobacter eat Nitrite, they excrete Nitrates.

4) The next stage ideally should also be a bio chamber, again made from Flocor, Jap Matting, Stinted Glass etc. The more bio chambers you have in your filter the more likely that all the Ammonia and Nitrites will be minimal on exit of these chambers.

5) The next chamber should be a pump chamber or a vegetation chamber. We know now that the main element in this chamber will be Nitrates. So we need to get rid of these.

5a) If this is a pump chamber then this will consist of some sort of PH buffer material (in netted sacks) i.e. Coral chips, Oyster shells etc. and your pump(s). From here you have two options: a) You need to pump the water back to the pond via a waterfall that consist of plants. These plants use Nitrates as a form of fertiliser, and in return they supply that water with Oxygen. b) You need to pump this water back to the pond, but some of this water should be diverted via a trickle tower which will remove Nitrates from the water.

5b) If this is a vegetation chamber, unlike the other chambers, this should not be covered as most plants need sunlight to live. In here you need water plants that produce lots of leaves. The more leaves the better. I would recommend that at the exit of this chamber you have another row of brushes or netting, to stop large particles of debris feeding back into your pumps. This chamber will eat the Nitrates and produce oxygen. After this chamber you should have your pump chamber, see section 5a) for more info.

I hope this helps.
 
A pond of that size is always going to be difficult to regulate, I doubt you could get enough plants in there to make much difference, looks like it's gonna be filter filter filter, and yes it is way too small for koi.
 

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