Possible to still get Methylene Chloride to strip paint?

[Sprogginz]

I know Methylene Chloride has been banned (for good reason I suppose) from paint strippers for some time now but as far as I am aware nothing comes close to removing paint than this chemical.

I'm trying to remove paint from an up-and-over metal garage door and it's really difficult.

I'm using a heat gun at the moment but it's taking soooo long. God knows how much electricity this is costing me.

I just wish I could slap some really powerful chemical on and scrape or vacuum it off after it has done its business.

Are there any new chemicals that have recently come out that are just as effective?

Can I buy Methylene Chloride neat and just brush it on? I saw on eBay a 5 litre drum of it for sale for £50, looks like they're in the automotive business.

Thanks very much.

 

[JohnD]

If the old paint is adhering firmly, why do you want to remove it?

 

[opps]

I still buy it from time to time.

IIRC, it is legally only sold in 5+L containers, and should only be sold to trade.

I don't know what paint was originally used on the garage door. MC works well with oil based paints, I don't know how well it works with powder based coatings though (which may or not may not have been used).

I would recommend that you email/phone Smith and Rogers

https://www.frenchpolishes.com/acatalog/Paint___Varnish_Removers.html

I have always found them to be very helpful.

Not long ago, there were eBay retailers selling smaller quantities. I know that the EPA in the US ordered them to stop. Not sure what the state in the UK is though.

BTW, wear the red PVC gloves when working with it.

Other than removing paint, it is often used for degreasing components.

 

[opps]

If the old paint is adhering firmly, why do you want to remove it?

Good point.

It may be quicker to feather out the paint but I am guessing that the door is galvanised, and the feathering process may damage the galvanised coating.

 

[Sprogginz]

I tried sanding it down.

It's a bit difficult to describe. Some areas are fine, other parts are flaky or cracked.
You easily chip off some areas as they're slightly lifting up but some areas are really difficult.
There are grooves which are difficult to reach in and sand

I don't want a professional job especially as folks aren't going to notice the detail from the street but by the time I sand bits here and there and scrape areas that are lifting off, I might as well just use the blooming heat gun.

 

[Sprogginz]

.... I would recommend that you email/phone Smith and Rogers

https://www.frenchpolishes.com/acatalog/Paint___Varnish_Removers.html

...

Thanks very much for that.

It's about the same price and they do a thick version for vertical applications.
Yes, they do state that they only sell this to trade but after going through a mock purchase online, it looks like I can order some.

++UPDATE++ Just ordered some and spoke to a lady there, very helpful. Thanks again.

 

[Sprogginz]

Just an update. Received the stuff! Forgot to mention that they do tell you that you have to be trade so I did have to say I was and gave them a company name that I use to use.

Anyways, I suited up with all the PPE, after reading the advisory notes online it makes you feel that you're handling radioactive material of some sort! I guess if it was indoors then it can be much dangerous as folks have died because of it.

As soon as I brushed it on, it started to bubble. I thought it was then going to be a breeze but sadly it just seems to penetrate the top surface and it was still scrappy to get the paint off. I will have to resort to using the heat again as that really gets 'everything' off albeit takes time but this stuff does help so by no means a waste of money.

Thanks again for all your help.

 

[fixitflav]

Just an update. Received the stuff! Forgot to mention that they do tell you that you have to be trade so I did have to say I was and gave them a company name that I use to use.

Anyways, I suited up with all the PPE, after reading the advisory notes online it makes you feel that you're handling radioactive material of some sort! I guess if it was indoors then it can be much dangerous as folks have died because of it.

As soon as I brushed it on, it started to bubble. I thought it was then going to be a breeze but sadly it just seems to penetrate the top surface and it was still scrappy to get the paint off. I will have to resort to using the heat again as that really gets 'everything' off albeit takes time but this stuff does help so by no means a waste of money.

Thanks again for all your help.

If it's any interest, here's what I found a few years ago when trying to strip paint from a wooden garage door.

I had an old tin of Nitromors, which worked OK till it ran out. Tin says contains dichloromethane and methanol.

Bought another tin, it was useless. Says contains methanol. Clearly they'd had to stop using dichloromethane but weren't prepared to say the stuff no longer works and you're wasting your money.

I got a 2.5 litre tin of dichloromethane from Solvents Online. Added that to the Nitromors, but if memory serves it still didn't do much good.

I bought some Diall (B&Q) stuff. Says contains benzyl alcohol. That didn't work either.

I think I gave up and just sanded it down before repainting, and it doesn't look too bad. If I have to do it again anytime I'll try the stuff you used.

 

[opps]

Just an update. Received the stuff! Forgot to mention that they do tell you that you have to be trade so I did have to say I was and gave them a company name that I use to use.

Anyways, I suited up with all the PPE, after reading the advisory notes online it makes you feel that you're handling radioactive material of some sort! I guess if it was indoors then it can be much dangerous as folks have died because of it.

As soon as I brushed it on, it started to bubble. I thought it was then going to be a breeze but sadly it just seems to penetrate the top surface and it was still scrappy to get the paint off. I will have to resort to using the heat again as that really gets 'everything' off albeit takes time but this stuff does help so by no means a waste of money.

Thanks again for all your help.

It is great for some paints but not all... if you are using a heat gun with a variable control, go for 550 degrees C. At that temperature, lead in paint is not an issue.

If the up and over door was originally a powber coat... maybe cellulose thinners will work. I suspect that the MC only removed the oil based paints that were applied later.

You can purchase gun cleaning grade cellulose from the likes of Morell. Pre covid.it was £20 for 5L.

Use the red pvc gloves when using it, it will dissolve latex and thin nitrile gloves.