Potterton Puma 100e, Lockout problem

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Hi,

My daughter has a potterton puma 100e combi boiler. When she turns on the hot water or switches on the central heating, a few seconds later it locksout, without the boiler firing up so (NO HOT WATER OR HEATING ) Can anyone please help!
New parts which have been fitted recentley pump and diverter valve.
 
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Probably a pcb, but could be gas related. I think you'd need an engineer.
 
Why were those parts fitted?

Who fitted them?

Did it work at first after they were fitted?

Tony
 
Yes sounds like an ignition lockout ! which would probably be down to the ignition pcb ! BUT before thats changed get them to check the top solenoid on the gas valve as if this has been damaged by water dripping from the auto air vent which happens quite a bit! then it will need to be replaced first as otherwise it will bust the new ignition Pcb as well ;)
 
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Why were those parts fitted?

Who fitted them?

Did it work at first after they were fitted?

Tony

Thanks for getting back to me,
I fitted the new parts,the pump was leaking,and the reason i replaced the diverter valve was every time she tried to switch on the heating it would lockout so i thought it was the diverter valve not doing it's job,bit hard to fit but managed it in the end and the heating worked .Hot water she had no problems with,until a few days later that's when she ended up with (NO HOT WATER OR HEATING ).Just the dreaded LOCKOUT.
 
So it did work immediately after you fitted those parts.

I dont follow your logic to replace the diverter valve as that has no function associated with lockouts.

"Gaz", I have never investigated but I am fairly sure that the main PCB operated the gas valve on BOTH types of Puma. If the gas valve is failed due to water dripping then it usually overheats the fusible resistors on the MAIN board as a result.

In the case of this fault, nothing posted gives me any clue. However, as its presumably gas related you will need a registered engineer. I assume you have checked the spark and detection electrode connections onto the ignition board through the white rubber grommets.?

Can you see sparking through the viewing window? If so then can you see any flame at all?

Tony
 
So it did work immediately after you fitted those parts.

I dont follow your logic to replace the diverter valve as that has no function associated with lockouts.

"Gaz", I have never investigated but I am fairly sure that the main PCB operated the gas valve on BOTH types of Puma. If the gas valve is failed due to water dripping then it usually overheats the fusible resistors on the MAIN board as a result.

In the case of this fault, nothing posted gives me any clue. However, as its presumably gas related you will need a registered engineer. I assume you have checked the spark and detection electrode connections onto the ignition board through the white rubber grommets.?

Can you see sparking through the viewing window? If so then can you see any flame at all?

Tony

Hi

After checking the solenoid, which is completely dry with no water in that area at all, also checked for spark & flame. There is no spark at all through the viewing glass. More help required please ?
Thanks
 
The ignition pcb (the one at the back) creats the spark it is more than likely this is faulty if you arent getting a spark :confused:

Agile - it always knocks the ignition pcb out trust me i have found out the hard way several times this is why they turned the solenoid around on a later revision! I have never has it take out the main pcb :confused:
 
The ignition pcb (the one at the back) creats the spark it is more than likely this is faulty if you arent getting a spark :confused:

Agile - it always knocks the ignition pcb out trust me i have found out the hard way several times this is why they turned the solenoid around on a later revision! I have never has it take out the main pcb :confused:

Hi all,
What always knocks out the PCB ?. If its the PCB and you say its the one at the back, when you unscrew the one screw which is holding the metal type box with all the electrical gadgets together and it drops down on its 2 pivots,the PCB you are now looking at,is that the one you think needs replacing?and what sort of cost is a new PCB .
THANK YOU ALL.
 
Not always knocks it out just sometimes(oh the top solenoid on the gas valve that is) and should be checked to make sure it doesnt knacker your new one you will be paying £90 approx for!

as its a costly mistake to make and takes 2 mins to check with a multimeter! ;)
 
If that was the case then I am surprised.

The main PCB controls the gas valve on the PP version, but if a faulty gas valve damaged the ignition PCB then it implies that the ignition board controls the gas valve on the electronic version.

Whilst I dont know at the moment, I would have expected that the gas valve relay on the main PCB would have been left off on the electronic version but I dont think that they are. About the only difference is LK1.

When I have a bit of time (?), I will see if I can compare the two wiring diagrams.

Tony
 
The Modulation solenoid goes to the main pcb but GV1 and GV2 goto ignition pcb as you obviously dont have these on a permanent pilot model ;)
 

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