POTTERTON PUMA 80 ELECTRICAL BURNING? £95 AND STILL BROKEN

[jenicks]

You sure you mean the pressure relief valve - it isn't behind the pcb really, but over on the right. Do you mean the DHW flow switch, which has a spring visible through a hole?
See here

Yes, it's the DHW flow switch. It's dripping out of the hole with the spring in it. Do I need to buy the whole flow switch assembly. Is it a DIY job? How much roughly the flow switch + labour? West Midlands. (strapped for cash!)

Regards

 

[ChrisR]

You could strip it and clean and silicone-grease it, you might be lucky. Glass rod goes through an O ring, sort of thing. Diy-able. New ones are about £35.

 

[jenicks]

You could strip it and clean and silicone-grease it, you might be lucky. Glass rod goes through an O ring, sort of thing. Diy-able. New ones are about £35.

Thanks for that. How do I turn the water off flowing through it? Do I have to drain it all down?

Kind regards

 

[jenicks]

Okay, the plumber's been and fitted a new DHW Flow Switch + Microswitch. Charged £95.00 and now we have NO hot water or heating and the kids are freezing! No bath tonight kids!

The pilot goes out as soon as the hot water tap is turned on of the CH fires. When I turn the HW tap on it sounds like a rocket. Also the 'HW DEM' 'LED1' red L.E.D on the PCB is now permanently on. I'm sure that it only used to come on when the HW tap was turned on.

Urgent advice needed.

Thank you

 

[corgiman]

Get the bloke who put the stuff back asap, his look out really

 

[Agile]

Its a simple fault and even my latest trainee would pick that up!

The demand switch has to be screwed in and the lock nut tightened so that there is a 1 mm gap to ensure the switch goes off reliably.

Needs to be set up when the bits are changed!

You could almost do it yourself but I would support calling the duffer back to teach him to do it properly next time.

Tony Glazier

 

[kevplumb]

 

[jenicks]

It's been a while for this update, until recently the heating has been fine and the H/W still hit and miss. Now we have neither again.

A new DHW Flow Switch + Microswitch was fitted last year and seems to be operating fine. HW Demand LED lights okay on demand.

The pilot is fine and stays on now. Last year I bent the thermocouple a little towards the flame as the fan was constantly blowing it out.

The Problem Now.
Turning on the hot tap doesn't make the boiler fire up. The pilot is on and the fan appears to be working. The hot tap flow is ok/poor and then after 10/15 seconds flow gets very very slow accompanied by a rising whooshing water sound coming fron the boiler. The whooshing used to continue for 10/15 seconds before the water heated up, the whooshing would stop and the flow would get better. Now it doesn't do that, just continues to whoosh and the boiler fails to fire.

Turning the heating to constant doesn't make the boiler fire up either. The pilot is on and the fan appears to be working.

Other fault finding I've done: The PCB had dry/loose solder joints at resistors R1 & R2. I've cleaned & re-soldered them. The resistors themselves may have failed though? If you think they may relate to the problem I can easily replace them if you can tell me their rating.

Any ideas gents.

Started new thread.

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