Potterton Suprima 50 not working

[Bobbins]

I've got a Potterton Suprima 50. The boiler has been very tempremental since we had it moved last January during building works.

It used to cut out at least twice a day, with the green light still flashing. The green flashing light has now gone (finally today). All we get is a permanent red light. We had an engineer round a few weeks ago. He was cheap and upped the pressure, which seemed to help for 2 weeks. The engineer said that the problem was due to the fact that the boiler had been moved and kickstart heaters attached. He said that the guy who installed kickstart heaters should have put something in to clear the systems??

Finally, our engineer also said if it wasn't the pressure, he'd have to replace the pump at a price of £350. If its not the pump, he'd then recommend changing the boiler.

On this board I've seen no mention of pumps being a problem. PCB's seem to me to be the common theme.

Has anybody any advice before I (possibly) waste £350 or possibly a lot more???

 

[ChrisR]

£350 to change a pump is blatant fraud. You should report the criminal to Trading Standards.
The pump would not cause intermittent problems like you have. Every pump changer and his oily rag will tell you that you have sludge which needs cleaning so they can set you up for a £500 day's work.
It sounds like a board problem, unless you have 2 different faults. I'd first clean the connector pins and examine the back of the pcb for cracks etc. 9 times out of 10 it's one of the connector or relay pin solder joints. Faults on the temp sensor or overheat stat are easy to detect. After that you have to give in and buy a new pcb!

 

[jakey_200]

Red LED on, green LED off indicates no external call for heat.

A competant electrician (only do this yourself if competant!) can check if this is so.

1. Set the programmer to CH on, HW off.

2. Turn the room thermostat right down.

3. Measure the voltage between N and the terminal marked SwL on the mains terminal block of the boiler (should be AC 0V).

4. Continue to measure this voltage and turn the room thermostat right up (there may be an audible click at the thermostat as it changes state). As the thermostat demands heat, the SwL voltage at the boiler should switch to AC 240V.

5. Set programmer to CH off, HW on and repeat 2 to 4 with HW thermostat.


You should ensure all is OK external to the boiler before delving inside!

If increasing the pressure really did make a difference, you should also check that all the radiators and the HW circuit are scrupulously bled of air!

Good Luck!









AC 240V should appear as you

 

[Bobbins]

After your advice, I called the jokers and cancelled their appointment. I then took the PCB out, cleaned the connectors and bingo, all seems to be fine (at the moment).

It took me ten minutes and you've saved me a lot of money. I'm furious that the jokers were going to change the pump and, when that didn't fix the problem, would have replaced the boiler. Scandalous.

Thanks for your help. It's much appreciated.

 

[David Looker]

I too had my pump changed and the system works well except for the intermittent cutouts. Having read what you wrote I'm keen to do these checks but let me know what is a pcb and details about what I have to do. The pump and fitting cost £220 for about three quarters of an hour's work but at least it worked at the end. I also have to bleed the radiators regularly and check the pressure. The thermostat doesn't seem to understand how much or little heat there is in the flat in the same way that the human body does either!

 

[Stiggy]

if you have to bleed your radiators regularly you probably have HYDROGEN in your central heating system, this is caused by a reaction between the metal in the radiators and water.
You can test this by bleeding the radiator and trying to light the gas that comes out, if you get a flame then you know you have hydrogen. This is easily fixed by buying some inhibitor fluid (usually claims to clean sludge as well), and adding it to your system.
Go to a plumbers merchant (yellow pages) tell him tyhe problem and you should get 1ltr of luid for between £15-£20.
Good Hunting
P.S A pcb is a Printed Circuit Board

 

[robsweeney]

I also have a potterton suprima 50 that cuts out. So far it was solved by pressing the reset button. But I now have a new problem - the pump which is located directly above the boiler does not receive power from the pcb. I disconnected the pump power cable from the pcb, put a plug on it and plugged it in. The pump works and the heating work ok but I would like it to be right again.

When I check the pump output from the pcb, it is around 200V. However as soon as I reconnect the pump to the pcb, the voltage drops to 0V. I guess a component on the pcb has burnt out? Any ideas?

I was going to replace the complete pcb. I see one for sale on E-Bay for £60. Is this good value? How much do they normally cost?

 

[MANDATE]

Hi Rob!
It would appear there are considerable problems with potterton pcbs on the suprima, so much that they introduced a improved version about two years ago with a new Part No which seems to have solved the problem. The cost if you can get it at trade price is about £140. (try cuzoncare) so £60 is good value but only if its the latest version.
There is a firm at watford who repairs them for about £35 plus post & packing. if you do a search on this forum for 'watford' youll find it.
On the other hand you'll find some have managed to re solder broken joints and cured the problem.

 

[ChrisR]

The pcb's check for pump faults and can just go into lockout if they think the pump is not working. I had no idea of that til recently. Also a failing pump which still spins can break the board. So be careful!

Also it has to be said that there is no visible difference, very often, between a dud board and a new one. So be careful where you buy!

 

[Baxi-Remeha]

Hi Rob!
It would appear there are considerable problems with potterton pcbs on the suprima, so much that they introduced a improved version about two years ago with a new Part No which seems to have solved the problem.

there is now a new brand spankin new one, part number 5111603, it comes with a new wiring harness, and basically re wires your boiler.

i change suprima boards regularly, but have never had to recall on one of these, so might be worth the extra few quid. you can find them on ebay, and auction at about £100.

 

[20pictures]

How do you clean a pcb? I have some Maplins Switch Cleaner. Is this suitable?

 

[ChrisR]

Jason which is the one you refer to as " never had to recall one of"? Is that the 5102160 "Issue 01"?

 

[Baxi-Remeha]

i might have the part no's mixed up, the NEW design board is the sealed box, which comes with re-wire harness, i have never had a recall on one of these, and have been using them for a while........



have just checked, part no. is 5111603


see link http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=63905&item=3851415248&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

 

[kevplumb]

please somebody let me change a pump

 

[ChrisR]

yes Jason - but that one hasn't been out 2 years.... Sorry I'm grilling you today! I've "heard" as one does, that the latest 5102160's are/were ok. Is that just another myth!