Power flush how much cost and is it worth it?

[Mojo12345]

Hi what is the approximate cost of a power flush on central heating systems and does it actually make a difference? Are there certain types, whilst removing the air from my radiators the water was brown I’m guessing this means I need the system cleaned but I’m not sure any advice would be great thank you

 

[ReJect]

Can cost £400 - £500 typically for a full power flush, but certainly wouldn’t be much less than £200 - £300.
Depends on what is done.
Chemicals for flushing and later inhibitor needed added when system filling up.
A magnetic filter fitted to system would collect any dirt in suspension after chemical cleaner added.
Usually best a cleaner is put into system days before system is to be flushed, time depending on cleaner instructions.
If system heavily contaminated, then system will improve with a flush, but slight crud in bottom of rads won’t be preventing rads heating.
System could be drained and each rad taken outside and flushed with a hose

 

[sircerebus666]

That's quite normal for a central heating system especially for an old one.

I would put in cleaner , drain system, take off each rad give them a good flush with a hose, replace tvrs if an old system , refill system and don't forget to put an inhibitor in too.

More work for you but much cheaper

 

[sircerebus666]

Don't forget to check the rads are balanced too....

 

[oldbuffer]

If the water in your picture is the colour of your central heating water, then:
1. I wouldn't bother with flushing of any type. Perfectly normal colour, and looks pretty much the same colour as dilute inhibitor.
2. As advised above, would be sensible to install a filter on the return to the boiler. Personally like the Magnaclean Professional or Spirotech MB3, but there are others.
3. Add another litre of fresh inhibitor once every 2 or 3 years. More chemical if you have a system with more than 8 to 10 radiators.

 

[Mojo12345]

Thank you very much everyone

 

[Mojo12345]

I had a plumber fit the Magnaclean professional and put inhibitor in let’s see how it goes but he suggested possibly changing the hot water cylinder in the loft as it may be old and have sludge in it maybe this is the cause of the hot water not coming out hot enough, or possibly getting a mega flow cylinder in the garage? Which is a better option and what would be approximate costs thanks

 

[sircerebus666]

Did the plumber check what the cylinder thermostat was set to ? It should be set to between 60 and 65 degrees.

The thermostat will be strapped to your hot water cylinder at the base.

Nine times out of ten the thermostat is set too low or needs replacing. (10 quid part)

Also check the cylinder insulation is solid and you might consider additional insulation.

I would get another plumbers opinion as the one you just used seemed intent on selling you expensive upgrades rather than looking at your existing set up

 

[sircerebus666]

Also your roof insulation appears to be missing in places.

As does your pipe lagging.

Does your header tank have a cover?

 

[Mojo12345]

He replaced the hot water thermostat, he has set it to 65, it wasn’t clicking, but now it clicks at 40 never seems to get to 60 I keep checking, I’ve set my boiler to 70, pipe lagging is missing I need to replace it and roof insulation is missing, the roof only has tiles on it and no felt underneath, there is polystyrene strips in between the wooden beams as there is no felt behind tiles, I brought the house 4 mo the ago the previous owner didn’t maintain well, the cold water storage tank doesn’t have a lid on it, dunno where to get a replacement? But I have 2 cold water tanks one on the wooden platform and one on the floor? Very confusing

 

[Mojo12345]

I will test the hot water thermostat today it should get to 60 degrees but doesn’t ? But I’ll check again to see the minimum temp it clicks at thanks for the advice

 

[Mottie]

It all depends on how high your thermostat is located on your hot water tank. 40 degrees near the bottom will equate to a lot more at the top! If I was to set mine to 45 degrees, it'd be way too hot to hold my hand under the hot tap. I don't think I could get mine to 60-65 degrees and I'm pretty sure mine is set to around the 40 degrees mark and it is very hot....

 

[sircerebus666]

You can also check your three way manifold to see if that's functioning

Turn on boiler and set to hot water only
Find three way manifold and see if the pipe coming from the boiler is red hot
Locate the pipe leading into your hot water cylinder from the three way manifold , it should be as hot as the boiler pipe
See how hot the pipe is going to your central heating is (it might be warm just after the three way manifold but cold further up)

If this is not the close you have a dodgy manifold

 

[Mojo12345]

Ok today I switched on hot water only for 50 mins the boiler was set to 70 degrees I went up into loft checked the hot water cylinder, the two pipes going in were very hot boiler in and out? But the pipe coming out of the top of the cylinder was cold or medium, didn’t seem hot at all, isint this the one that goes to the taps?
Also the hot water cylinder thermostat was clicking at 40 even tho it’s set to 60 does that mean the water in the tank is only reaching 40? Could it be a fault hot water cylinder? Also checked the pipe work on the wall see pics any help or advice will be appreciated thank you

 

[sircerebus666]

It is the one that goes to the taps.

It does look like a faulty cylinder....

I take it the boiler was running continually for the 50 mins as it should if the temp is not reaching 65?