Problem painting a garage door

[TomH91]

All I did was wash it down with sugar solution and a sponge, then rinse it off. The Hammerite guide said something along the lines of "Use abrasive paper and if necessary use a wire brush to remove rust". The way I read that was to use the paper to remove rust, not to do it anyway

 

[Growler]

The Hammerite binder is similar to cellulose thinner and will remove ordinary paint.

Nice to see a bit of experience every now and then.

Yeah But!!!! Hammerite garage door paint is is an enamel thinned/cleaned up with white spirit.

Myself when I do a 'sound' metal garage door same colour, I abrade lightly to dull, wash, and one/ two coats of conventional gloss only.

I sit corrected. Can't stand Hammerite and don't like the sound of this stuff either.

Myself, when I do a "sound" metal garage door same/ish colour, I wash/ abrade lightly , touch up and apply a good coat of Crown Solo gloss as it's self undercoating .

 

[TomH91]

After examining the door once more, the blistering seems to have occurred only on the top half. Sanding down this blisters seems to be a bit of a hassle and isn't really removing them properly and is leaving a sticky mark behind.

Is there anything I can do to get rid of them more effectively? Bit reluctant to spend more money. The only thing I have lying around is white spirit.

 

[jondecs]

After examining the door once more, the blistering seems to have occurred only on the top half. Sanding down this blisters seems to be a bit of a hassle and isn't really removing them properly and is leaving a sticky mark behind.

Is there anything I can do to get rid of them more effectively? Bit reluctant to spend more money. The only thing I have lying around is white spirit.

Painting broad areas in direct sunlight can cause the paint to ''set'' tooo quickly, sounds to me like the sags are the result off paint skinning before it was spread and layed off. The blisters perhaps are where the thick edges are shrivelling?

The sticky mess is a classic case of the gloss hardening /skinning leaving the fresh paint behind it. This is why we don't abrade 'fresh gloss'. leave 3.4 wks then abrade and repaint with a thinned first coat (white spirit) on a dull day

Good luck

 

[TheDec]

I think that I perhaps mislead the op with advice on scrape and sand, I further complicated it regarding the removal of the uncured (tiger print) paintwork left after early removal of a system not yet fully cured.

Apologies

Dec

 

[jondecs]

OOps I did'nt read that dec. Noo need for apologies m8

 

[TomH91]

Thanks for the further replies. Another forum I'm using also suggests to leave it to dry of fully before attempting to get rid of the wrinkles, so looks like I'll do that.

One the few that's I've already attempted to sand, will I be able to remove this 'tiger print' mark in a few weeks?

Also, what would be the best way to get rid of them? i.e. what type of sand paper?

 

[TheDec]

Difficult to say without actually seeing them, yet 80 grit should be fine.

Dec

 

[Dudz]

Avoid Hammerite as it is too thick and dries too quickly. It is awful stuff to work with. Use good quality paint and primer like International Paint products, they may cost a little more but results will be far better. Always prepare properly and use primer first as the better the preparation the better the end result.

 

[Nige F]

Sounds like hammerite are selling old skool coach enamel Same stuff is sold @ agricultural stores for painting tractors/ machinery . Did a van with it once - John Deere Green . Sprayed nicely but took ages to dry