Hmm...ok. I would have never spotted that! Thanks- I will do some digging and perhaps see if I can contact them directly and enquire. Really appreciate your (and everyone elses) help.
Problems wiring up extractor fan
- Thread starter drives
- Start date
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Please let us know the outcome.
I took a live from the upstairs ring.
The fan had a connection for a perm live, a switched live and a neutral.
I ran the live in to a fused spur unit. From there I branched two lives. One became the switched live (via a switch) the other live runs directly to the fan and acts as the perm live.
That was 12 years ago, it works as it should. I do not understand why you think there is something wrong with that. Whilst not wanting to disagree with someone whose advice I respect.
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A ring final is usually only used on socket circuits. Do you mean “ring”?
Bathroom fans tend to be powered from the lighting circuit.
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I have a Silent 100HT.
...this thread is a bit confusing to me, so I'm worried it is also confusing @drives.
From what I can make out, the OP has a switched Live and Neutral at the fan.
They are happy to keep the switch turned on, to allow the fan to work automatically from the humidistat.
If this is the case, the wiring should match fig. 9
The OPs Switched Live can connect to the L of the fan, there doesn't need to be a link between L and Ls
The 100HT has three terminals, fig. 9 is purely (lazily?) using the 2 terminal diagram for its Silent 100 model (maybe for simplicity, or clarity
).
@drives, can you show us a pic of the DIP switches?
The switch settings on the instructions are also a little confusing, being shown in two different forms:
If, the fan is to be used in a more conventional way, the wiring will need to be modified to match fig. 8
...this thread is a bit confusing to me, so I'm worried it is also confusing @drives.
From what I can make out, the OP has a switched Live and Neutral at the fan.
They are happy to keep the switch turned on, to allow the fan to work automatically from the humidistat.
If this is the case, the wiring should match fig. 9
The OPs Switched Live can connect to the L of the fan, there doesn't need to be a link between L and Ls
The 100HT has three terminals, fig. 9 is purely (lazily?) using the 2 terminal diagram for its Silent 100 model (maybe for simplicity, or clarity
).@drives, can you show us a pic of the DIP switches?
The switch settings on the instructions are also a little confusing, being shown in two different forms:
If, the fan is to be used in a more conventional way, the wiring will need to be modified to match fig. 8
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Ok.
Ok, but the permanent live was not fused.
I do not think there is anything wrong with that; it is the standard way of wiring a timer/humidistat fan - but it is not the same as the OP is asking about.
He only has L and N and apparently the humidistat is supposed to work with just that.
Thank you.
Thinking about it; I suppose all humidistat fans must work like this. Just never seen it set out in the instructions before.
That is: the humidistat must be permanently supplied and then when the humidity reaches the set level it internally triggers the timer circuit continually until the humidity falls.
So, if one only has L and N at the fan location, one could fit a (pull cord) switch near the fan wired between L and Lt and use to turn on the fan whenever wanted when the humidity is low.
Live and learn.
That is: the humidistat must be permanently supplied and then when the humidity reaches the set level it internally triggers the timer circuit continually until the humidity falls.
So, if one only has L and N at the fan location, one could fit a (pull cord) switch near the fan wired between L and Lt and use to turn on the fan whenever wanted when the humidity is low.
Live and learn.
I have a Silent 100HT.
...this thread is a bit confusing to me, so I'm worried it is also confusing @drives.
From what I can make out, the OP has a switched Live and Neutral at the fan.
They are happy to keep the switch turned on, to allow the fan to work automatically from the humidistat.
If this is the case, the wiring should match fig. 9
The OPs Switched Live can connect to the L of the fan, there doesn't need to be a link between L and Ls
The 100HT has three terminals, fig. 9 is purely (lazily?) using the 2 terminal diagram for its Silent 100 model (maybe for simplicity, or clarity
@drives, can you show us a pic of the DIP switches?
The switch settings on the instructions are also a little confusing, being shown in two different forms:
View attachment 298964
View attachment 298963
If, the fan is to be used in a more conventional way, the wiring will need to be modified to match fig. 8
Thanks for this- definitely a bit confusing in parts but all massively helpful and have got my head around a few basics as a result of advice received. I can confirm I have the switched live and N at the fan. The fig.9 wiring is what I have done. I've attached a photo and as you can see all the switches are off which by my reckoning means the fan should only be coming on if the humidity is 90% or over. I turn it on via the switch and it keeps running.
So from what you say, my fan should be wired up correctly? To confirm, the rH in the room presently is 29-30 measured by a portable humidistat which is what I'd expect as the room is currently not being used/being renovated, and is well ventilated as half the partition walls are missing
The instructions are definitely not the best...
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I have just figured this out with the help of envirovent and of course user error! So...I thought my switch settings meant it was at 90% humidity but it was actually 60%. Therefore if I turn it up to 90% by pushing the switches at 4 and 5 to the up/on position, this sorts it. The manual is so confusing...
I have to say the Envirovent tech support line were really good/quick at answering, and helping. I guess my standalone humidity sensor is massively inaccurate
I have to say the Envirovent tech support line were really good/quick at answering, and helping. I guess my standalone humidity sensor is massively inaccurate
I took the supply from the socket ring. I was building a "false" wall to accommodate the toilet cistern and decided that using the ring was far easier than punching holes in the ceiling. Additionally, I did not want to use the lighting switched live because I didn't want the fan to come on each time the lights were turned on.
Yes, well done!
Sorry, I was just about to post! - it's the small squares (that represent the switch position) in the picture that you should be looking at.
Here's my settings for 90% humidity, a run-on and a start-up timer...
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I ran the live in to a switched FSU. From the load side, I had two lives, one direct to the fan, and one that runs in to a one gang light switch inside a cupboard.
Yeah, I know that the regs probably require the light switch to be in a lockable cupboard, or to be IP rated, but hey, it is my own home...
BTW, at the end of my post, I said that I "res" your advice. I guess that you realised that I meant to type "respect". I have since corrected my error. Tnx.
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